Michel Troisgros is the third generation of France's longest-standing line of chefs. Having started at his father and uncle's already Three-Starred restaurant, he took on the family legacy and enhanced it. Together with his wife, they opened and closed various restaurants around the world. Remaining for the fourth generation are “La Colline du Colombier”, “Le Central”, and the increasingly famous “Le Bois sans Feuilles”, which, in addition to its Three MICHELIN Stars, has earned a Green Star.
Michel Troisgros is the third generation of France's longest-standing line of chefs. Having started at his father and uncle's already Three-Starred restaurant, he took on the family legacy and enhanced it. Together with his wife, they opened and closed various restaurants around the world. Remaining for the fourth generation are “La Colline du Colombier”, “Le Central”, and the increasingly famous “Le Bois sans Feuilles”, which, in addition to its Three MICHELIN Stars, has earned a Green Star.
It all began at the “Café des Négociants”, run by Jean-Baptiste and Marie Troisgros in Chalon-sur-Saône. This is where the legendary Troisgros brothers, Jean and Pierre, born 1926 and 1928, grew up. Their father aspired to a more prestigious venue and, when offered the “Hotel des Platanes” in Roanne across from the train station, eagerly accepted and renamed it “Hotel Moderne”. Marie oversaw the kitchen, and the establishment's reputation grew. Jean and Pierre, after training at the leading culinary institutions in Europe, returned in 1952. The first MIHELIN Star was awarded in 1955, with a second one coming ten years later. The two brothers championed Nouvelle Cuisine with their sour revolution, quick cooking, lightening of dishes, and plate presentation. In 1968, they secured the third Star, which has never been disputed since.
Michel Troisgros, son of Pierre and Olympe, adeptly carried on the family legacy, keeping it current and even slightly ahead of its time, incorporating new influences but never straying from the inherited paradigm. Born on April 2, 1958, in Roanne, Michel was immersed in the magic of cooking from a young age, always beside his father, who often told him that cooking was the most beautiful job in the world. He had no doubts when enrolling in the Grenoble hotel school, where he met Marie Pierre, his future wife and mother of their three children, Marion, César, and Léo. All are now involved in the family business.
Together with Marie Pierre, Michel embarked on a global journey to study international cuisine and gather new inspirations. By sixteen, he was already working with Roger Vergé at “Moulin de Mougins”, followed by stints with Alain Chapel at “Mionnay” and Frédy Girardet at “Crissier”. He spent two years at “Taillevent” in Paris, but during the winters he headed to “Chez Panisse” in California, expanding his horizons to contemporary trends. Further stops included “Comme Chez Soi” in Brussels and “Les Prés d’Eugénie” by Michel Guérard.
In 1982, Michel returned to Roanne to assist his father and uncle, eventually taking over the kitchen. His style evolved: "The spirit remains, but the customer shouldn't feel it's outdated." He brought in a passion for cultural fusion, from frequent trips to Asia to exploring his roots (given that his maternal grandmother, Anna, was Italian). "With the Mediterranean and Asia, I have a vast playground."
Yet Michel and Marie Pierre weren't content with mere reaffirmations. They looked ahead, considering the eventual handover to their children. In 1995, they opened “Le Central” opposite Roanne's train station, inspired by Italian gastronomy. Various establishments opened and closed from Moscow to Tokyo and Paris, earning stars and accolades. However, “La Colline du Colombier”, where Léo now works with his wife Lisa, and “Troisgros - Le Bois Sans Feuilles”, a farm and restaurant run by César, relocated in 2017 to the more comfortable and modern setting of an estate in Ouches, just a few kilometers from Roanne. For Marion, the manager of “Troisgros”, there is an agricultural complex with a bakery and riding school in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes.
In March 2023, the renowned chef announced his retirement: "It's time for César to have free rein, to blossom and to make it known that he's the only chief in the kitchen.” Before officially taking over the three-starred kitchen, he traveled to Brazil, working with his uncle Claude, Michel Rostang, the Roca brothers, and Thomas Keller, championing sustainability and earning a Green MICHERLIN Star for “Le Bois sans Feuilles”. Michel continues to manage the Troisgros Consultants group with his wife, and the Troisgros lineage innovates as they always have, from the iconic sorrel salmon of the 50s, remaining a benchmark in global gastronomy.
