The idea of selling “alcohol-free” wines is finding fertile ground throughout France, so much so that Belles Grappes has already received inquiries from entrepreneurs interested in replicating the format in other cities. This is not just a passing fad.
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In the heart of Bordeaux, the cradle of world viticulture, a small revolution is taking hold. Belles Grappes, a boutique entirely dedicated to dealcolated wines (with reduced or low alcohol content, by law no higher than 0.5 percent vol., thus very close to a non-alcoholic beverage)has opened its doors ; a concept, this, that until recently would have seemed almost heresy in a city symbolic of traditional wine. Yet interest in low-alcohol alternatives is growing, and France does not want to lag behind this global trend.
Anne Kettaneh, co-owner of Belles Grappes with her husband, tells Decanter about a steady stream of curious people and producers who cross the store's threshold to find out more about this new market. “Every week I get winemakers who want to try a new dealcolored wine,", she explains. The store's selection ranges from whites, reds, rosés, and even a few bubbles, from Bordeaux, Provence, Germany, and Austria. The idea of selling “alcohol-free” wines is finding fertile ground throughout France, so much so that Kettaneh has already received inquiries from entrepreneurs interested in replicating the format in other cities. This is not just a passing fad: statistics point to a change in consumer habits. According to a YouGov and Portman Group survey, 38 percent of adults in the United Kingdom regularly consume non-alcoholic or low-alcohol alternatives, a sign of a steadily expanding market.
The wine industry's interest is not limited to distribution. An industry giant like Familia Torres has announced a 6 million euro investment in a new winery dedicated exclusively to the production of alcohol-free wines. Meanwhile, the European Union is closely monitoring this development, especially in light of the gradual decline in wine consumption. To address surplus production, the French government recently allocated more than 100 million euros to grub up surplus vineyards. At the regulatory level, the European Commission has already introduced the terms “dealcoholized wine” (with alcohol content up to 0.5 percent) and “partially dealcoholized” in 2021, providing an initial regulatory framework.
In December 2024, a panel of experts recommended further measures to adapt the industry to new market demands, encouraging the production of less alcoholic wines without compromising the quality and identity of traditional products. One of the most interesting aspects of the alcohol-free wine revolution is that winemakers themselves are beginning to see it not as a danger, but as an opportunity. In France, the ability to label bottles “Vin de France Désalcoolisé ” is helping to legitimize the category. For Anne Kettaneh, the success of these products will depend on being able to prove that there is a real demand. “If you can prove there is a market, winemakers become the first fans of innovation,” she says. And, considering the growing numbers, it seems the market has already responded.
