Weekend wine

Buttrio Castle: Alessandra Felluga's Warm Welcome and Fine Wines

by:
Marco Colognese
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Coepertina Castello di Buttrio

The Excellence of Felluga Family's Winemaking Meets the Timeless Charm of a Historic Residence Turned Luxury Relais.

The enchanting beauty of Friuli Venezia Giulia is widely known. Some of its corners possess the unique ability to captivate both the gaze and the heart. We discovered this while visiting Castello di Buttrio, perched atop the Pampinutta hill; it's easy to deduce that it derives from "pampino," the leaf of the vine. 

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Resulting from a lengthy and skillful restoration guided by the visionary perspective of Alessandra Felluga, a wine producer and hospitality expert, along with her daughters Maria Vittoria, Michela, and Maria Eugenia, this is a place well worth getting to know.

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Maria Vittoria is the first to share the story of this place, enveloped by vineyards. Some of these vineyards, still productive, trace back to the 1930s: "At the beginning of the 1990s, my grandfather was in search of vineyards on the Buttrio hill, also known for its tendency to produce excellent red grapes (in a region where white wine prevails)."

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The castle, of no interest to him, was nonetheless for sale along with the land. The vineyards were always meticulously cared for, and upon seeing the potential, my mother envisioned her dream for the estate: comprehensive, stylish, and hospitable, centered around wine. As a result, from the initial ten hectares, the estate has grown to a total of thirty-eight: Around twenty are in production, ten have potential, and the remaining eight forming the castle's park."

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Before delving into the world of wine, it's important to note the 17th-century building. Once a summer residence for Udine's prominent Jewish Morpurgo family, Alessandra Felluga transformed it into an elegant boutique hotel. Within its walls, besides the sixteen spacious rooms, each uniquely adorned, an original cruise ship staircase has been preserved in all its splendor. Staying here is truly worthwhile, as is experiencing the charming agriturismo just across, complete with sincere inn dining.

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On the enological front, beyond the splendid landscapes offered by some vineyards shaped like amphitheaters – stepping onto these plots is essential to understand their value – Alessandra and her daughters aim to craft wines with a well-defined style and a clear underlying philosophy. These wines, tasted with pleasure, are products of extreme cleanliness, directness, and expressive clarity that simultaneously render them precise and full of character.

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As Alessandra shares, "It all begins with the countryside. Knowing each of the small plots we have is crucial, for us to know where to find what we need even though each year is different. The vines must always be closely taken care of; you work the land, and it responds with kindness. Our plots vary widely, each with its unique exposure. I find this to be a positive factor in the evolving climate. Nonetheless, it's demanding management, especially with vines from 1933; every corner has its tasks. Overall, it's like the effect of a kaleidoscope, which then converges in the glass."

MonBlanc, a white wine of great personality that embodies Friuli

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Among the tasted wines, Ettaro fascinated us – a marvelous, rich reserve of Sauvignon with its unmistakable expression. Similarly, the non-trivial immediacy of MonBlanc caught our attention. An IGT that Alessandra describes to us as, "It sounds a bit like in the Friulian language and is a blend as per regional tradition. Now, in this wine, there are equal percentages of Ribolla, Friulano, and Malvasia Istriana, harvested and vinified separately even though they come from the same area of eleven old hectares of the castle."

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The soil consists of ponca, alternating marl and sandstone. The wine matures for six to eight months in contact with the fermentation lees, periodically kept in suspension. On the nose, it presents refinement, allowing exploration before revealing floral freshness. On the palate, it releases acidity and a delightful savory trait that supports a beautiful structure; its body is embracing. A wine that delivers more joy than contemplation.

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