The vegan revolution of Michael Wankerl, the chef who removed animals from the menu: “The generation that eats foie gras, heavy sauces or braised meat will be extinct one day. Veganism is definitely not a fad or a niche-it is the future."
The opinion
Veganuary has just ended, but some people don't mind calendars and like to welcome their diners with plant-based dishes all year round. Such is the case with chef Michael Wankerl, who since 2020 has made Gerüchteküche - his restaurant in Graz, Styria, awarded three Gault & Millau hats - a realm where plant-based finds its fullest expression and reveals its deepest flavors. Veganism was not Gerüchteküche's starting point, but the fruit of a path of personal evolution for the chef.
"In 2014, when we opened we had a completely different approach, using whole animals, entrails and all. Over the years we reduced meat and incorporated more and more vegetables into our dishes. I had wanted to cook vegan for a long time, but I had never dared to go all the way, then the year 2020 worked in my favor. In January I had to shut down for two months because of an operation, and in March came the lockdown. After several discussions, my wife said, “Nothing can get worse, so do what you feel.” So in May I decided to cook according to the 80/20 principle: 80 percent vegan, 20 percent animal protein," the chef tells Rolling Pin. This hybrid philosophy, “neither meat nor fish”, however, did not convince the public, but especially the chef, who after the second lock down chose to opt for strictly plant-based cooking.
Wankerl, who professes to be a vegetarian in his daily life, is very objective in recognizing the potential of veganism, but, at the same time, highlights how some aspects can still be improved. "I am a vegetarian because I can't give up weekend eggs and I don't want to miss out on good cheese. Vegan alternatives to cheese are not for me, that's not cheese. I have found very good substitutes for many animal products, but it still doesn't work with cheese. The approach to vegetable cooking has to be very forward-looking, you should never consider vegetables a hindrance, that would be wrong. Vegetables are not the problem, they must be the answer. If one thinks about it, the difference between a vegan and a vegetarian dish is not that big. One just has to leave out some components and substitute them if necessary. Avoiding cream or butter is possible in a few moves; whipped egg whites can also be easily replaced with aquafaba (chickpea water)."
Even in explaining the healthy choice behind the vegan revolution, Wankerl remains extremely balanced and points out that certain over-processed vegan foods are not in line with his philosophy. "Of course, one can also follow a vegan diet based on unhealthy convenience products, but if one prepares balanced meals at home and chooses similar alternatives in restaurants, I believe that vegan cuisine is healthier. Besides the great flavors, I am particularly interested in the health aspect. In our restaurant in the evening we have a six-course menu. We make sure it is not too heavy and we minimize carbohydrates. Not every course contains protein, fiber, vitamins, carbohydrates and so on, but throughout we manage to cover every requirement. Diners after dining with us are satisfied because they have eaten healthy, high-quality food and want to return. I would like to make it clear how we can eat chic, good and varied even without animal products. In the coming years we will not be able to continue to consume meat as we have done so far, sooner or later alternatives will have to be found.
The generation that eats foie gras, heavy sauces or braised meat will one day become extinct. Veganism is definitely not a fad, not a niche; veganism is the future. One thing, however, is particularly important in this change: you should not lecture people, but, rather, inspire them. If you inspire them, they will follow. Education only repels."
