In Putignano, Angelo Sabatelli tells his story with his eponymous restaurant. Travels, ancient traditions, and an elegant present in his ideas.
Portraits by Valerio Napoletano
Dishes photos by Danilo Giaffreda
THE STORY
Angelo Sabatelli, the first of three children, was born in 1968 in Monopoli to a seamstress mother and a farmer father. Since childhood, he began to visit the butcher's shop, then enrolled at the Hospitality Institute of Castellana. A random choice, more dictated by the desire to follow his friends. In the mornings, he attended classes, and in the afternoons, he worked alongside a "true master," pastry chef Mino Allegrini. During that time, Angelo absorbed all the love for pastry, as well as learning the most important techniques. After some time in Puglia and initial experiences, he arrived in Rome, at Convivio Troiani. Just seven months later, he earned a Michelin star.
He remained in the capital for another two years until instinct made him pack his bags, and extreme curiosity took him to Jakarta, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Mauritius. Twelve years passed during which Angelo Sabatelli became familiar with the language, but even more so, he became attuned to the scents and flavors of the East. Everything around him became his, imprinting in his mind those ingredients so different from those of his homeland, Puglia. His taste evolved, rediscovering in distant recipes new languages, thanks to which the desire to speak about them in his own country would be triggered in him. It was 2007 when he returned home.
THE RESTAURANT
Angelo Sabatelli's cuisine tells the story of his life. A life of travels but also of strong and unbreakable bonds. This gives rise to a gastronomic dialogue that quickly conquers the most important stages and earns the respect of many, starting from the recognition of the Michelin star in 2013.
Traditional recipes evolve with skill, while still harking back to the tastes of the past. The journeys undertaken seep into the Chef's creativity, rejuvenating ideas and inspirations. All of this comes to life at number 1 Via Santa Chiara in Putignano, in the historic center of the city of Bari. Here, in the cradle of the Carnival (the longest in Europe), Chef Sabatelli signs his eponymous restaurant sign, telling his story to both the people of Puglia and beyond.
Hosting this small culinary temple is the ancient Palazzo Romanazzi, a historic and noble residence: made of stone and sometimes barrel-vaulted, it faithfully reflects the architectural style of Puglia. However, soft and warm lines of the ancient walls are interrupted by contemporary furnishings, clean and elegant in a design more closely tied to the present. Tables and chairs of solid wood custom-made in Manzano (Friulian furniture district), the foyer and the dining room are separated by a large corten steel fireplace-curtain.
No tablecloth "also to avoid covering the wood grain." Thirty seats in total, with the black of the seats contrasting the surrounding stone and white. However, the surprise is the 125-square-meter cellar in living stone that houses about 3000 national and international labels, with some proudly Puglian references and even some nods to the natural world. The extensive and well-curated selection of Champagne is also unmissable. In the dining room, the capable team is led by Laura Giannuzzi, the chef's wife, who acts as the hostess with her stories and her gentle and discreet manner.
THE DISHES
It starts with the Chef's amuse-bouche: crispy chickpea flour meringue, typical of Putignano (which dissolves in the mouth like a cloud); the tomato that, when tasted, unfolds into a bold flavor of Puglia, with references to frisa and saltwater. There's also fried lampascione, enveloping with fig must; the moist cuttlefish meatball with nitsume sauce and katsuobushi; the lamb-filled ravioli with double cream (bbq, yogurt, and mint); the burnt wheat tartlet with truffle potato heart and sweet and sour radish, acidic and crunchy. The first glimpse of the chef concludes with a vegetable infusion, a hot and invigorating broth that serves as a reminder for no waste.
The menu opens with a dish from Chef Sabatelli's memory that takes him back to childhood recipes: matured cabbage, mustard, honey, and pollen. The memory goes to his father with numerous contemporary references. A dish with great chewiness that highlights the skillful processing of the vegetable, becoming as prominent as an animal protein. The second appetizer is a light cod brandade, crusco pepper, and olive drops. One would say "when appearance deceives": an elegant chromatic cloud that nevertheless expresses itself boldly in its strong and decisive flavors. The cod foam recreates a crackling sensation in the mouth, just like the olive drops. It almost feels like stepping on fresh snow with every bite.
Here comes the leek and potato soup, "fried" vegetable rice, katsuobushi. A dish with international influences that is served at the table speaking a distant language. The most authentic expression of a warm and enveloping taste in the mouth. Accompanying it, the five-grain bread with sourdough. The first courses start with "frutti di mare" cavatelli, slightly spicy chicory, and fava bean puree. The encounter is with its most recent version: mussels, octopus, and red shrimp are found both raw and cooked, a glimpse of the sea onto which the cavatello is served directly at the table. Here we come back home, with the most classic of seafood first courses.
The main courses begin with sea bass in lemon crust, light arrabbiata, citrus emulsion. Acidity but also a lot of smoothness make it a truly successful dish in its simplicity. We move on to the meat main course with lamb, turnip greens, pistachio, and salted mandarin. A pistachio cream base accompanies the lamb, shaded by the turnip green leaf in tempura. On the side, blueberry gel and turnip tops and pistachio cream. In conclusion, a sauce that screams "Umami" (lamb cooking broth and salted mandarin).
We approach the finale with desserts, of which Chef Sabatelli considers himself decidedly expert. Finally, the "Passion Dessert" award bestowed upon him by the Michelin guide for talent, creativity, flavors, and the most intriguing combinations enclosed in a dessert. An example is the revisiting of a symbol of local tradition: the "fico maritato" (married fig). This iconic product of Puglian gastronomic culture is nothing but a fig with a whole almond inside (usually preserved in a jar with layers of laurel leaves). Here we find it with an almond paste base, a thick slice of candied fruit, a white chocolate mousse quenelle, and its soft heart of San Marzano.
Interesting is the petit four with apricot jelly and almond panzerottino. Lastly, the chocolate bonbon with an artichoke and lampascione liqueur base. Contrasts of hot and cold, flavors, and textures to conclude the Sabatelli-signed experience.
CONTACTS
Angelo Sabatelli Restaurant
Via Santa Chiara, 1 - Putignano (BA)
Phone. 080 40 52 733
