A Cliffside Resort Overlooking the Sea Where the Chef Blends French and Italian Flavors: In Porto Ercole's Fine Dining "Jewel Box," Michelino Gioia Delivers New Taste Twists.
The story
As you navigate the winding roads of Porto Ercole's panoramic route – a port town on Monte Argentario – you already feel like you're about to arrive at a picturesque location, with Giannutri Island and Giglio Island on the horizon. Upon reaching your destination, Hotel Il Pellicano lives up to expectations; a resort seamlessly integrated into the surrounding nature, perched on the cliffs of a lush bay.
A paradise’s corner. Born as a private club in 1965 by Michael Graham and his wife Patsy Daszel, in 1979 entrepreneur Roberto Sciò acquired the property, now led by their daughter Marie-Louise, the CEO and creative director of the group that owns two other hotels: Posta Vecchia in Ladispoli and Mezzatorre in Ischia. A destination that fully embodies the concept of "La Dolce Vita" through a combination of modern design and timeless charm. The rest is completed by bougainvillea, sea-view terraces, and splendid suites with a chic atmosphere, a place that captivates Italians and enchants foreign tourists – especially Americans, who are regulars around these areas.
The restaurant
In this context, Pellicano's gastronomic offering lives up to its grand name. Breakfast is a feast where the savory team enjoys variations of eggs, Tuscan cheeses, and cured meats, while dessert enthusiasts revel in a celebration of sugars with tarts, cow's milk yogurt, jam tarts, fruit cakes, and chocolate creations. For lunch or dinner, there's the more informal option of Pelligrill or the fine dining of Michelino Gioia, who has maintained his Michelin star since 2018.
It was precisely in the Pellicano restaurant's kitchen that the chef embarked on his fine dining cuisine journey in 1998, before embarking on a tour through renowned Italian and French restaurants, eventually establishing himself at The Cesar at Posta Vecchia, where he earned his first Michelin star. Through his creations, Michelino Gioia expresses a cuisine dominated by northern italian techniques and preparations, intertwined with local ingredients and an immense love for our land's cuisine.
The dishes
The amuse-bouche showcases the exceptional available ingredients, including poached egg with wasabi potato cream and a tartlet with blue fish tartare, crème fraîche, tomato, lime, ginger, and three types of caviar that create delightful vibrations. As for wine, they remain in Tuscany with a 2019 Syrah from the pioneering Stefano Amerighi, with its spicy notes leaning towards red fruits and its rounded drinkability complementing the fish exceptionally. Right off the bat, the initial appetizer hits all the right notes: blue lobster with three selections of carrots – purple, orange, and yellow – and a peanut sauce that complements the crustacean, creating a remarkable flavor contrast. It can become addictive. The presentation is also captivating, with the claw positioned vertically, adding depth to the dish.
After tantalizing the palate, the quail garnished with foie gras, blueberries, and licorice mayonnaise has a bold taste, balanced by the fruit's sweetness and subdued by the root's flavor.
The scene shifts with lemon risotto, raw and cooked langoustines with a shiso (Japanese basil) green sauce topping, and buffalo mozzarella shreds. A signature dish that, like its predecessors, maintains the perfect balance of ingredients; however, here the challenge lies between sweet and bitter, and the result proves the chef's mastery.
The tortelli filled with duck and liver, with cream and leek chips, pumpkin seeds, and sautéed pumpkin, pay homage to the area, renowned for its game. The pasta's pleasing texture and the umami emerging from the preparation make it incredibly flavorful.
The principles of the French culinary school, learned by Michelino Gioia, shine brightest in the scallop dish with slightly smoked soft potatoes, Smith apple sauce, and crispy chips of local "goffreda" potato (Maremmana variety), accompanied by wine reduction and piglet cracker. The piglet cracker is a stroke of genius that adds complexity to the dish, enriched by the local potato – a delightful discovery – and the apple sauce that sweetly ends the symphony of flavors.
Ending the savory part of the tasting with pigeon breast, black zest, foie gras, raspberries, and red berries might seem conventional or classic, but it's anything but ordinary, and certainly not an easy challenge. The chef wins hands down: perfect cooking resulting in tender meat, complemented by the intensity of duck liver. Cherries and red berries gracefully finish the dish.
The sweet finale emerges with almond sorbet and Chantilly cream, accompanied by raspberry in both jelly and natural forms. A lively and impactful interplay of fresh ingredients that promptly introduces the chocolate creaminess expressed in biscuit, cream, and ice cream versions. A mix of textures that always delights. If you always go back where you've had a good time, Michelino Gioia confirms it.
Address
Hotel il Pellicano
Località Sbarcatello, 58019 Porto Ercole GR
Tel: 0564 858111
