Il Marchese opens in Milan on Via dei Bossi, introducing a new Roman culinary haven for food and drink enthusiasts. A successful venture by young entrepreneurs Davide Solari and Lorenzo Renzi, the establishment highlights authentic cuisine by Daniele Roppo and mixology by Fabrizio Valeriani.
The story
A project created by two young Roman entrepreneurs, Davide Solari and Lorenzo Renzi, the restaurant 'Il Marchese', which initially succeeded in Rome at Via di Ripetta 162 – an osteria with a market and liquors, as they fondly describe it – expands its concept to Milan, at Via Dei Bossi 3, strategically located among the city's key landmarks: the Duomo, Teatro alla Scala, and Brera. These business partners and longtime friends had previously launched Art Cafè in 2001, Fregene Ondanomala in 2003, a beachside establishment in Fregene, and the innovative V Lounge in Ostia in 2009 – a kind of Roman Miami dedicated to summer nights.
"We're like brothers," state the duo, "complementing each other in every way. We've shared everything since school – friendships, vacations, work, even our aspirations and viewpoints. When we first saw the premises on Via di Ripetta, we both immediately knew it had to be Il Marchese. It's the realization of our greatest project and the pinnacle of all that represents us: personality, mutual care, relationships, dreams, and genuine Roman spirit, translated into an elegant contemporary style."
The names of the two establishments evoke memories of the celebrated film Il Marchese del Grillo, directed by Mario Monicelli (starring Alberto Sordi, Caroline Berg, Andrea Bevilacqua, and Flavio Bucci), a sophisticated yet genuine blend that caters to both the noble bourgeoisie and the bohemian commoner. From lunch to aperitivo, dinner, and after-dinner, the narrative of the décor, ambiance, dishes, and cocktails forms a gastronomic journey through the roots of the Eternal City, alluring and hospitable even to international patrons. The Roman venue has already claimed the title of Europe's premier Amaro Bar, boasting over 600 niche liquors, overseen by bar manager Fabrizio Valeriani, who also supervises the bar at the new Milanese Marchese.
The Milanese venue offers a more opulent interpretation of the Roman one, reimagined by architects Luca Gasparini and Delfina Caprio in a neoclassical interior design, complete with ancient columns and floors. It features an oval central hall with sophisticated furnishings and smaller rooms that reinterpret the concept of a Roman osteria – both decadent and rustic. As explained by Stefano Carnelli, director of Il Marchese Milan, "By crossing our threshold, we want to bring together the bourgeois and the carbonaro (the coal merchant), and restore allure to the inn that offers good drinking and dining."
The venue
Handcrafted wooden tables and artisanal chairs create intimate spaces or 'restaurants within the restaurant.' Alternatively, guests can dine at the center, with a view of the large kitchen and along the counter, illuminated by skylights and grand crystal chandelier lamps, reminiscent of historic residences. Stefano Carnelli has been entrusted with this new challenge and experience, drawing from his experiences with the Cerea Family (catering and Da Vittorio restaurant in Bergamo, as well as the private club La Società del Giardino) and hospitality at Milan's Hotel Gallia.
"I spent some time in Rome on Via di Ripetta with Davide Solari and Lorenzo Renzi before opening in Milan. We want to ensure we bring the strong and authentic Roman identity, adapted to Milanese needs. This includes efficient and satisfying service within an hour, for instance, during lunch breaks, and an expanded wine selection, personally curated by me. Il Marchese must blend both formal and informal service, harmonizing a dining experience that caters to the tastes of both the nobleman and the coal merchant, within the same ambiance. It offers genuine Roman cuisine, with portions reflecting tradition, presented in gourmet plating. Our idea is to spread Roman cuisine, ambiance, and lifestyle everywhere, perhaps even replicating the format abroad. Over nine months, the dynamic Milanese piazza responded positively, and we sowed the seeds through diligent and hard work. We await feedback from returning patrons and strive to foster a growing clientele for both lunch and dinner."
In the kitchen, Chef Daniele Roppo takes the lead. An expert in uncompromising Roman gastronomy, Roppo ensures the authenticity of his dishes starting from the raw materials – for instance, the guanciale sourced from Lazio to preserve the genuine flavors of Roman cuisine. The lunch menu, from Monday to Friday, presents special dishes that change weekly, accompanied by Roman classics such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, and gricia. Roppo himself states, "In Milan, as in the capital city, Il Marchese is an elegant osteria with a culinary philosophy deeply rooted in Roman traditions. It's inspired by traditional recipes that are then adapted to contemporary tastes."
From his childhood, Daniele had a significant connection to his grandmother, who ignited his passion for cooking, and to the figure of Alberto Sordi. "I remember the first time I met the actor; I was seven years old. Sordi went to the same barber as me, and I was in line to get a haircut. Suddenly, he appeared and started teasing me. He was in a hurry because he was expected at Cinecittà for filming. As he walked by, he playfully gave me a little tap on the ear, a sort of caress." His passion for artisanal gastronomy and honest cuisine, centered around always-fresh, locally-sourced ingredients – often directly from small, family-run enterprises – captures authentic flavors that speak on the palate.
From the guanciale purchased from Re Norcino, an award-winning, centuries-old entity in Ascoli Piceno, to the Cibaria pecorino produced in the heights, which is milder than others; from line-caught cod to porcini mushrooms harvested from the hills of Lazio. Furthermore, octopus, shrimp, and even squid from Circeo, as well as smoked buffalo mozzarella from a small producer in Latina.
The dishes
Among the appetizers, guests can enjoy the Crocchetta di Baccalà and Crocchetta di bollito – a Roman dish and a special recipe from the chef's grandmother, in which the bell and brisket of beef are boiled and simmered with spices and herbs. The accompanying green sauce is the classic version combined with homemade mayonnaise.
Among the primi, the indispensable Roman signatures – Amatriciana, Cacio e Pepe, Carbonara, and Gricia – are served in a striking aluminum pan brought to the table with a generous portion of pasta. Seasonal alternatives include handmade Gnocco with chicken giblet and sausage ragù and the Roma-Milan Risotto with saffron, braised oxtail, and marrow broth.
Among the secondi, the classic Veal Fillet, like saltimbocca (with sage and prosciutto), undergoes slow low-temperature cooking, then pan-seared and glazed with its own dark sauce, wine, fried sage, and crispy prosciutto. the seared and bacon-wrapped calamari with Roman broccoli and caramilized onions, and the octopus on zucchini cream "alla scapece," zucchini flowers, and caramelized soy. the tuna in bread crust, Lamb Scottadito meatballs (grilled with potatoes and mayonnaise), and the devilish-style Galletto, showcasing the chef's creative touch. There are always at least five or six appetizers, primi, and secondi. Desserts, another passion of Daniele Roppo, are all homemade, with the classic tiramisù as the centerpiece, available in both the classic and pistachio versions.
Drinks
In the world of wine, the aim is to recreate regional stories, alongside successful Italian and international labels. This includes the tales of Omina Romana Winery and Cesanese grape variety – the sole indigenous red grape variety in Lazio – perfectly paired with meat dishes, Roman pastas, and aged cheeses. Leading the Amaro cocktail and cocktail pairing scene in Milan is resident barman Antonio Petrella, along with Fabrizio Valeriani, the touring bar manager overseeing both Rome and Milan.
Beyond traditional classic mixology and old drinks, Petrella's repertoire includes experimental and avant-garde creations, featuring homemade cordials, syrups, infusions, and other ingredients. Examples include the "Special" category, Twist on classics with variations. There are six types of Americano, all differing in the menu, except the first recipe, which remains constant (vermouth, bitters, soda, black tea, cinnamon, Braulio Riserva velvet).
Among the cocktails is the elegant Cavaliere di Franciacorta, a Champagne-based drink with Tequila Patron, Vermouth Martini Rubino, Amaro del Capo Red, homemade mandarin syrup, fresh lime juice, Franciacorta foam, and a damask rose spray. The Passion Fitz, featuring Fernet Branca, fresh lime juice, homemade Passion fruit syrup, and Chinotto. The French Cordusio 75, crafted with amaro, gin, berries, herbs, lime, Franciacorta sparkling wine, served in a champagne coupe with a dried raspberry.
The Milanese offering already encompasses 300 bottles of niche amari, sourced from abbeys, specific distilleries, or small collector supplies. It's prepared to delight patrons with after-dinner tastings and innovative mixology cocktails that complement Il Marchese Milano's succulent cuisine.
Address
Il Marchese
Via dei Bossi, 3, 20121 Milano MI
Tel: 02 5812 4986
