Among the most innovative formats in the Milan scene, Contraste's "creation" ventures seaside to breathe life into a new spin-off at the historic "La Caravella" club. Discover all the surprises of Exit Spiaggia Urbana.
The Venue
Exit Pastificio Urbano hits the beach and transforms into Exit Spiaggia Urbana. For a few weeks now, the format created in Milan by the three Ps of Contraste restaurant, Matias Perdomo-Simon Press-Thomas Piras, has opened on the Forte dei Marmi waterfront. Opening along the Forte dei Marmi coastline, it adapts the offer that has symbolized exclusivity and sophisticated comfort in the Milanese realm since 2021, giving it a maritime twist.
In the remarkably short time of a month and a half, the spaces that used to belong to the historic La Caravella club, just a five-minute walk from the legendary Capannina di Franceschi, have been transformed into a '50s-flavored venue. Aqua green tiles and director's chairs evoke the beach resorts of the '50s. The retro allure of the setting combines with a fresh contemporary concept, which, while retaining the essence of the Milanese models, finds a happy interpretation here.
"We wanted to understand," explains Stefano Scaroni, one of the partners, "how the concept translates beyond the Milanese environment. We needed to step out of our comfort zone and test our dining idea in a different setting." The rhythms of the classic holiday routine are followed here: doors open at 6 PM for a post-beach aperitivo at the cocktail bar curated by Dom Carella. Dinner is served until 11:30 PM, and guests can stay for drinks until late into the night. The season will conclude in October, but once the interior work is complete, a year-round opening is planned. "The idea is to create a new formula," explains Onofrio Viscione, the restaurant manager, "linked to the strong identity that unites Exit Pastificio and Contraste, born five and eight years ago respectively. Some of the team members from Versilia originate from there, all with a solid sense of belonging, led in the kitchen by Isaac Baccigotti."
Originally from Bologna, the 27-year-old chef embarked on his professional journey at a young age in Sardinia at Forte Village. He then spent a year and a half in London before returning to Italy at Buca di Cesenatico. His next stop was Milan at Voce di Aimo e Nadia, and then he arrived at Contraste, where he found an extremely stimulating energy that taught him, among other things, to unravel ideas and to doubt the fundamentals that a more traditional culinary approach usually implies. Isaac describes Perdomo and Press's cuisine with tones of deep admiration, defining it as intellectual and highly intelligent. "Together with Matias and Simon," the chef says, "we created a menu proposal that we hoped would stand out in Forte's gastronomic scene, aiming to represent something new."
The elements are all in place to achieve this goal, considering that the Montemarmino scenario, apart from rare exceptions, doesn't inherently possess an avant-garde inclination, whether in hospitality, gastronomy, or nightlife. However, it has always embodied a certain classicism. Therefore, one can't help but cheer for these innovations, welcoming new ideas and a breath of freshness to Versilia. Especially since many Milanese who are already familiar with the brand spend their vacations in Forte, where they will find a certain familiarity in the cuisine—an artistic stroke of South America that infuses creative simplicity, always leaving a touch of the unexpected.
The Dishes
One of Lombardy's Exit must-tries peeks from the menu: the Recco's focaccia, which in its sea edition is adorned with shrimp, pesto, and cherry tomatoes; or caviar, eggplants, and lemon; or 'nduja, stracciatella cheese, and escarole. A symbol of unmistakable deliciousness, much like the bread crostino, butter, and anchovies, that consistently gathers unanimous approval.
The mineral savor, verging on the metallic notes of Sicilian oyster, combines harmoniously with the tangy vegetal character of apple brunoise and the béarnaise sauce that coats the mollusk.
Inspired by the typical Peruvian tiradito, a unique presentation of raw fish is offered based on the market's freshest catch, in this case, mahi-mahi. Compact and lean meats, bursting with flavor, find balance in the slightly acidic gazpacho of green grapes and the sweet and sour onions, while wasabi ice cream adds a lively kick. The cocktail bar serves up a pairing of kombucha with vermouth and roasted pepper.
A dish considered Peru's national treasure, Exit's ceviche with shrimp swims in invigorating leche de tigre, a sort of revitalizing elixir also recommended for breakfast. Avocado cubes and sweet potato intermittently soften the acidity and light spiciness.
Even the simple yet always appreciated mussels receive a creative touch, immersed in a delicate sweet potato velouté, with a slightly bitter flavour from olives and a smoky note lent by smoked paprika.
But since we're still discussing a format born from a Pastificio, pasta must certainly have its place. And considering our location, neither can arselle (small clams) be omitted. Chef Baccigotti has chosen to present them with homemade spaghetto alla chitarra, which boasts a characteristic roughness that captures the sauce and enhances the bite.
The subsequent spaghettino is thinner and smoother, served cold. After just a few minutes of cooking, it's strained and then mixed with fresh oysters, lemon, and caviar. Smooth and joyfully slippery, maritime and iodized just right, with a hint of acidity.
To avoid being one-dimensional, it's only fitting to please those who can't resist meat just a few meters from the shore. Here comes a perfectly cooked lamb shoulder, accompanied by the umami richness of a meat reduction and smoked potato purée. The pairing cocktail is spot-on, a Negroni where Campari is replaced by Hierbas di Ibiza, releasing aromas of juniper, anise, lemon, thyme, rosemary, and orange zest.
Desserts opt for swiftness, avoiding elaborate puzzles, in pursuit of high precision execution. Consider the excellent crema catalana and tempting cream-filled choux pastry. Or the creamy chocolate, toasted to maintain a delicate bitter note, paired with a shortcrust crumble and milk gelato.
Address
EXIT Spiaggia Urbana
Via Achille Franceschi 12- 55042 Forte dei Marmi (LU)
Tel. 0584 1849416
