Where to Eat in Italy Trattorie e Osterie

Beyond Tradition: Tripe for All in Milan

Fulvio Marcello Zendrini
copertina trippa milano

The opening of Diego Rossi and Pietro Caroli's restaurant signified a milestone in the local gastronomic narrative: friendly environment, affordable prices, and fresh creativity for a menu that changes every night. Trippa writes a new page for traditional cuisine that looks to the future.

The Restaurant

Milan. Porta Romana. An area that at night, bars and local trattorias are mostly filled with the young crowd for aperitivo and dinner. These venues have sprung up like mushrooms in recent years. And instead of competing, they challenge and complement each other in a surge of diversification of gastronomic offerings. It is precisely called "territorial gastronomic marketing," even within the same city, and I have written about it many times before in these terms. Because, if Milan already in itself represents the gourmet destination in Italy par excellence, having outclassed Rome, Naples, and Bologna in this respect, nevertheless the "gastronomic wave" shifts territorially depending on the strength of the restaurant offerings of the very neighborhood in which the restaurants are located.

 @Paolo Zuf

This is the same thing that happened with trendy clubs or discos in the 1980s. And if once it was Brera that won the challenge of the most coveted food district (in the 1970s and 1980s, anyone who did not spend an evening between Banco and Briciola was considered "out") and if soon after came Isola, the neighborhood north of the Porta Garibaldi station, along with "viaTortonaViaSavona" - as we often heard people say and where the "Langosteria" phenomenon was also born, Enrico Bonocore's eatery that multiplied over the years in Milan and went as far as opening in Portofino, Paris, and Saint Moritz- now it's Porta Romana's turn. And here it's passed the baton to Trippa.

@Paolo Zuf

@Paolo Zuf

Do I need to tell you about Trippa? I honestly don't think it's necessary. But for sure, in Porta Romana, there is a pre- and a post-Trippa. The opening of Diego Rossi and Pietro Caroli's restaurant marked a milestone in the local gastronomic narrative. The new Trattoria, which is the concept of proposing tradition on the plate, completely revisited (and I would even say innovative) in a friendly environment at affordable prices, immediately exploded and brought notoriety of a new kind to the area that already offered many, different paths of gastronomy, Italian and ethnic. But above all, it led to the rediscovery of gastronomic "relationships." Relationships in the true sense of the word. That is, people meeting and seeing each other again in this place, where friendships, passions, discussions, and projects were born.

The trattoria as a place of exchange, not just as a place of gastronomy. And Trippa is just that. A friendly, intimate place. And the kitchen? Diego Rossi, from Verona, class of 1985. He attended the hotel institute and then first ventured into the kitchen at the Oste Scuro Restaurant in Verona then at Locanda delle Tamerici in Fiumaretta di Ameglia, spending two years in Laguna at Bauer, and then St. Hubertus with Norbert Niederkofler, Locanda Margon, and Delle Antiche Contrade where he got a MICHELIN Star on June 20, 2015. But everything changed after that. He left the MICHELIN Star and opened his Trattoria Trippa in Milan. A totally new concept for a traditional place.

This is also why, still, more than seven years after its opening, Diego Rossi and Pietro Caroli's restaurant remains an important landmark in Milan's culinary geography. And that is why, even now as a reservation specialist, getting a table is extremely difficult. We got the table, and for the umpteenth (never obvious) time we ate at this address.

The dishes

The menu? Different every night, like any self-respecting trattoria, according to what the market offers. We begin with Trippa fritta (fried tripe), one of the restaurant's must-haves. Opening the evening is the first glass of wine and these strips of tripe to be munched on as if they were peanuts, or potato chips.

Trippa Fritta


We continue with the grilled spring onions, mascarpone, citrus Piretto, powder of capers from Pantelleria, and salmoriglio (traditional sauce from the south of Italy). Complex, bittersweet dish, very interesting and tasty. Then roasted celeriac and pork cheek, Mediterranean sauce, and smoked paprika. Once again poor, seasonal ingredients, but rich in flavor and contrasts.

 Grilled cabbage

 Pudding of leeks from Cervere

Now comes the stew of radicchio di Verona, goat cheese fondue, butter chestnuts, cocoa. A homegrown vegetable, for the cook, still with a slightly bitter background, with great personality. We continue with a soft egg, cumin cauliflower cream, agretti (saltwort), sardine from Garda, and hazelnut dressing. Tastes of tradition blended and reinterpreted in a contemporary way.

Gnocchi with Ragù di Coratella and artichokes @Marco Varoli


And now for a great Diego classic: Vitello tonnato. A classic of Piedmontese cuisine, reprised by Rossi with a siphon whipped sauce, almost fluffy and very smooth.

Vitello Tonnato

Luckily there´s still room for two first courses, which we taste at the end of our journey: the first is Tortelli all´aglio orsino (ramsons), butter and Parmigiano. Don´t ask me how a holy hand in the kitchen manages to roll such a delicate pasta and make them so good...So much so that they are a surprise every time. And finally, Tagliatelle, butter and Parmigiano. A great classic.... with nothing to add.

 Tripe tortelli

Tagliatelle al ragu from wild boar

Do you understand why Trippa Milano is Trippa? Do you understand why Pietro, the dining staff, Diego and Seba(stiano) and the guys in the kitchen are so special? No, don’t even try, I am not making a recommendation for a table. Just go to the website and book long in advance. If you are lucky, Trippa's world will be yours too.


Trippa Milano

 Via Giorgio Vasari, 1, 20135 Milano MI

Tel: 327 668 7908




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