A bold new direction, from award-winning kitchens to a cozy, homey spot: Miquel Gilabert proves that you can change your life by pursuing a new dream.
There are places where time seems to have stood still, making way for the breath of the earth. In the beating heart of Alicante’s inland region, far from the hustle and bustle of coastal tourism, lies Benidoleig, a village of just 1,200 souls that holds a treasure of unexpected rarity: the restaurant Mare. In this haven of fine dining, a philosophy of hospitality blends seamlessly with a monumental wine cellar. As reported by InfoBae, the restaurant’s collection boasts over a thousand different labels, a selection curated with such devotion that it nearly outnumbers the village’s own inhabitants. A wine journey that celebrates the Valencian region, while elegantly embracing prestigious international wines.
The Alchemy Between Mother and Son
The essence of Mare lies in the unbreakable bond between chef Miquel Gilabert and his mother, Josefina. After honing his talent in the cradles of haute cuisine such as the famous Etxebarri, Miquel chose to return to his roots, transforming the old family bar into a gastronomic salon with just five tables. Here, Josefina is not only the historical memory but the soul of the garden that supplies the kitchen daily with the freshest vegetables, brimming with that authentic flavor that only artisanal care can guarantee.
While the coast is the realm of paella, Miquel Gilabert’s restaurant in the inland region rediscovers the charm of home-style cooking. The undisputed star, the “signature dish” that defines the restaurant’s identity, is the Valencian stew. Unlike the more opulent versions found in other Spanish regions, Mare’s version is a celebration of lightness and the earth: a mosaic of root vegetables—parsnips, turnips, and carrots—that harmonize with chickpeas, select cuts of beef and pork, and traditional meatballs.
A menu that follows the seasons
The menu unfolds like a story divided into chapters: “Produce and Fields,” “Produce and Sea,” “Produce and Seafood”. From the chef’s signature sobrasada to homemade anchovies, every ingredient is a tribute to the Marina Alta. The fish, personally selected at the Dénia market, is treated with an almost sacred delicacy: a quick sear on the grill that preserves the vitality of the flesh. For those who wish to immerse themselves in this experience, Mare offers two options: the Germanor menu (€32), ideal for a convivial weekday lunch, and the more extensive Teresa tasting menu (€60).
Miquel Gilabert proudly emphasizes this point: in a world where restaurants tend to look alike from New York to Shanghai, Mare chooses authenticity. “The connection to the land is often lost,” the chef observes. In Benidoleig, however, the parking lot is right outside the door, silence is a key ingredient, and the relationship with the guest is direct, intimate, almost familial. It’s not just a dinner; it’s a return to a place you didn’t know you’d forgotten.
