A cuisine that flows effortlessly through the contours of the landscape, tracing human and geographical paths onto the plate: Antonio Gentile transforms the 227 km separating Naples and Rome into sophisticated recipes. From pre-departure snacks to the sweet arrival, what does a travel memory taste like? Find the answer at Anima, the restaurant at The Rome Edition, just a 10-minute walk from the Trevi Fountain.
Lunch begins exactly like breakfast, shaking things up even before your taste buds have switched to savory mode. It’s 1 p.m., and at The Rome Edition, chef Antonio Gentile has prepared a frothy cappuccino, topped with a thick layer of foam. It is not, however, the usual sugary concession to tourists who ask for “milk and coffee” alongside their plate of carbonara or amatriciana: the visual trick evaporates just as quickly upon tasting, as the drink contains nothing less than a white potato from Vesuvius.
“I'm originally from Ercolano, and this variety of mini-sized, small, and compact tubers is grown near Mount Somma,” explains the executive, with the air of someone who now carries a piece of Campania with him wherever he goes. “This is how a ‘fake cabbage’ is created, into which you can dip a sfogliatella filled with creamy buffalo ricotta. Then, since we’re still in Rome, we can’t miss out on the maritozzo—also served as an appetizer, filled with cacio e pepe. I wanted the start of my journey to be like the classic pre-departure rituals, where you say good morning with stuffed pastries and comfort drinks."
A great idea, considering that the journey will span a full 227 kilometers (which is the name of the special menu, ed.): “It’s the distance between Naples and Rome, where every stop becomes an excuse to explore the shared flavors of a place.” In the background, the expansive expanse of greenery (read: over 400 plants to refresh the eyes and lungs!) that marks the outer perimeter of the Anima restaurant, close yet immune to the perpetual congestion of Piazza Barberini and the Trevi Fountain; a venue ready to tailor its spring-summer menu to new regional influences.
Anima: The Rome Edition’s restaurant that blends Roman and Neapolitan recipes
The “soul” of the restaurant, as we mentioned, is first and foremost that of Gentile, who honed his craft in the kitchens of Heinz Beck and Pierfranco Ferrara. His style is one of “improvised cooking” that flows effortlessly through the curves of the landscape, covering Gaeta, Formia, Terracina, and the Frosinone area within a 90-minute tasting. Upstream, there is a special affinity with pastry chef Giulia Zarattini, whom he met at La Pergola and who has become a benchmark for the meticulous execution of leavened goods—which we’ll return to at the end of the meal and during breakfast the following morning. While the “227 KM” (6 courses for 95 euros; a decidedly fair price right in the historic center) stands out for its connection to the ever-changing biodiversity between the inland and the sea, the all-vegetarian option at 80 euros puts the pedal to the metal on local staples, from eggplant parmigiana to eggs with provolone.
“For me, the golden rule in the restaurant business is the flexibility with which we allow each guest to choose their preferred type of experience each time. So, I wanted a third option (”Km a scelta,“ ed.) consisting of four à la carte dishes,” says the chef. “This also satisfies those who want to eat quickly, expanding our concept of free dining.” Contributing to this, in the peaceful setting of the courtyard, is a pairing based on a connection with each individual guest, thanks to the “dining room duo” formed by Benito Colonna and Aires Da Silva. Striking, for example, is the “treasure hunt” of labels such as the Tellenae Manfredi Stramacci, representative of the volcanic soils of Lazio, alongside a discreet selection of “evergreen” Champagnes led by Charles Heidsieck. But what to expect after the “savory breakfast” that gets the tour off to a start?
Anima’s dishes, blending Mediterranean flavors with rustic touches, right down to the iconic desserts of the Eternal City
Say “tartare” and you inevitably think of raw meat—unless Antonio Gentile turns the conventional wisdom of this quintessential protein-rich appetizer on its head. “I do use, yes, raw beef, but I combine it with a freshly made Neapolitan ragù,” he confesses. Surprisingly, the sensation is that of meat that has been stewed for a long time and scented with homey aromas, while the “raw” texture adds bite, enhanced by a touch of raisins and pine nuts in the typical Neapolitan style. Nothing goes to waste from the remaining beef: sausage, spare ribs, and chuck make up a small meatball served as a side dish. From the southern sauce to the “day-after” no-waste recipe, you’re whisked away in a matter of minutes, until you land on the coast of Gaeta.
“Here, at the beach resorts, it’s easy to try Calamarelle alla vota piatto, a sort of egg-free frittata that makes the most of the simplicity of a basic ‘water and flour’ batter.” Inside, small squid—often brought home by fishermen as their personal catch; underneath, a lemon marmalade with which Gentile evokes memories of a trip to the coast. Depth, however, comes from a Pil-pil made with squid innards and offcuts, its ink, and almond sauce: the vigor of puttanesca and the delicacy of the baby squid.
The shellfish course features aSpaghetti with garlic, olive oil, chili pepper, and raw Terracina shrimp. “It's not just the Sicilian shrimp from Mazara del Vallo”, the chef points out. "Instead, we use the white shrimp from the waters off Lazio. We extract the juice from the heads, pulverize all the scraps, and obtain a bisque that requires no cooking, so that the topping allows the pure essence to shine through. The dish is only heated during the pasta tossing phase.“ A single star ingredient and three seasonings: before us, the absolute essence of the ”naked and raw" shrimp.
Even more impressive are the Genoese tortelli with Abbacchio IGP, with their slightly chewy wrappers. The twist? A Southern-style sauce that becomes the filling for the pasta. What’s more: the lamb replaces the beef and soars over the Lazio coastline, preparing for a soft landing on a cream of Formia provolone from a small family-run farm. The result is just the right amount of indulgence, with the extroverted roundness of the Montoro onion taming the meat’s pungent aftertaste.
At the other end of the spectrum, a sense of simplicity emanates from the daily catch: the sea bass is served directly in an edible silver parcel with its broth and potatoes, enlivened by a touch of capers and olives that add a burst of flavor to every bite.
As we approach the finish line, a corner of the stomach prepares to welcome two Roman favorites: here comes the fluffy Maritozzo—this time with whipped cream—and its sweet counterpart, Ricotta and Sour Cherries. On one side, a ‘bread’ glazed with hazelnut butter; on the other, a mixture of ricotta and jam transformed into a mousse, where the sour cherry sorbet creates a ‘temperature break’ between the crumble and the airy layer. Mamma Roma in a crescendo of indulgence at the photo finish.
The Rome Edition: What One of Via Veneto’s Best Hotels Has to Offer
On that note, the emphasis on pastries is undoubtedly one of the reasons to stay overnight at the hotel. Breakfast is, in fact, conceived and structured like a multi-course menu, with a welcome treat from the pastry chef—for us, a babà filled with cream—followed closely by a basket of pastries, cream-filled Veneziana, and fresh fruit. Those who wish to try the Brownies will find them unusually fresh thanks to the boost of pomegranate and mint, while the French toast features chestnuts, honey, and amaretti. From the kitchen, the Eggs Florentine are noteworthy: a “spoon tower” of poached egg at 63°C, spinach sautéed in butter, Mornay sauce, and cocoa nibs.
Once you’ve had a proper refreshment, your first day can continue with an exploration of the hotel’s various interior spaces, starting with an important point: when you stand in the lobby, you’ll feel as though you’re in an open space, thanks to the 7-meter-high ceilings designed by the Statuto Group and architect Ian Schrager (who also designed Studio 54 in the Big Apple). The lobby of The Edition—unlike the usual post-check-in transit areas—thus invites you to sit on the white sofas for a read, happy hour, or even just to snap a photo of the tables designed by the “tailor of stone,” Manuel Coltri.
Just a few steps away is the Jade Bar, a secret hideaway for cocktail enthusiasts with a dozen seats, whose “twin” speakeasy is the Punch Room, which focuses more on evening socializing. If you’ve never heard of it, expect some of the best drinks in the area in terms of composition and presentation:the menu crafted by bar manager Riccardo Di Dio Masa reimagines the five characteristic elements of 17th-century punches, literally bringing the vintage recipe book into the modern era.
It’s easy to get lost among the road trips stretching from France to Scotland and all the way to the U.S., with accompanying “travel tales” that bring the menu to life. This eclectic approach aligns with Antonio Gentile’s philosophy and is poised to reveal some liquid surprises, such as the Big Ben, featuring a 3D-printed replica of the famous clock tower. The taste? Smooth and enveloping, as we’re talking about a milk punch made with Tanqueray Ten gin and clarified milk, whose balance is enhanced by the presence of black tea infused with popcorn, pineapple, and warm notes of cinnamon.
After diving into the world of international mixology, you emerge from the Punch Room looking forward to a good night’s sleep in one of the 74 rooms and 17 suites, among which the Premier category deserves special mention. Here, between the 55-inch TV and the designer bathrooms clad in Carrara marble, your gaze can even reach the dome of the Pantheon on the top floors of the complex. Andyou feel like a “tourist by choice,” not by chance. Until our next (gastronomic) journey takes us apart.
The Rome Edition - Ristorante Anima
Salita di San Nicola da Tolentino 14 - Rome
Inquiries: +390645249354
Email Address: eh.romeb.hostess@marriott.com
- Breakfast Mon - Sun: 7 am - 11 am
- Lunch Mon - Sun: 12 pm - 7 pm
- Dinner Mon - Sun: 7 pm - 11 pm
