Can popcorn be considered a “luxury”? Yes, if it’s made with shrimp: here’s how Tom Kerridge turned this “movie theater” snack into a Michelin-starred dish.
Few chefs manage to challenge preconceptions with the same boldness and good-natured elegance as Tom Kerridge. His strength? Not in inventing a new language, but in elevating a “dialect”: that of British pub cuisine, historically relegated to the realm of rustic, unpretentious comfort food. With the opening of The Hand and Flowers in Marlow, Kerridge carried out a true act of culinary rebellion. He was the first to demonstrate that a wooden counter, a convivial atmosphere, and a menu centered on timeless classics could coexist with the rigor of two Michelin stars. His “pop revolution” lies not in simplification, but in a meticulous celebration of the raw ingredients. In his hands, fish and chips or a meat pie become architectural masterpieces of flavor where classic French technique—from deep reductions to sous-vide cooking—meets the true spirit of the English countryside. Kerridge has transformed the “ordinary” into the “extraordinary,” making excellence accessible and turning the pub into the new temple of democratic haute cuisine.
A Pop-Inspired Tribute: Shrimp “Popcorn”
In keeping with this philosophy of refined simplicity, a dish emerges that perfectly embodies the chef’s playful yet sophisticated spirit: shrimp “popcorn”. This is not merely a snack, but a clever way to highlight what the local environment offers in abundance. American crayfish are now the most common in UK waters, a precious resource that Kerridge invites us to rediscover. They are extremely easy to find fresh, ideal for those who enjoy the ritual of cleaning them, or you can opt for convenience by purchasing just the ready-to-use tail meat. This is a fantastic way to enjoy them: the sweet, firm meat lends itself perfectly to being coated in a light, crispy batter, transforming them into irresistible bites. They are perfect, suggests the chef, for a casual gathering or as a signature appetizer, especially when served as a reinterpretation of a great classic: the seafood cocktail, accompanied by the ever-present, velvety Marie Rose sauce. It is the quintessence of “star-studded pop”: a common ingredient, a childhood memory, and impeccable execution.
Recipe from the book Tom’s Table
INGREDIENTS
SERVINGS: 8
- 1 kg of shrimp tail meat, cleaned and drained
- 200 g corn flour
- 100 g tapioca starch
- ½ teaspoon baking soda
- 1 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 330 ml sparkling water
- All-purpose flour for dusting the shrimp
- Smoked paprika for garnish
- 1 pink grapefruit for zest
1: Pat the crayfish tails dry with paper towels and set them aside.
2: Heat about 12 cm of oil in a deep fryer until it reaches 180°C. Alternatively, use a large, deep skillet, making sure it is no more than one-third full, as the oil will splatter violently when you add the crayfish. If you have a kitchen thermometer, check the temperature; otherwise, dip a cube of dry white bread into the hot oil: if the bread turns golden in less than a minute, the oil has reached the desired temperature. Always keep an eye on the pan and never leave it unattended.
3: Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix all the batter ingredients except the water. Whisk in the sparkling water until the batter is smooth and runny.
4: Lightly coat the crayfish with flour, shaking off any excess. You’ll need to fry them in batches. Don’t overcrowd the pan, and let the oil return to the right temperature between batches. Dip the crayfish in the batter to coat them completely, then drop them into the hot oil and fry for 2–3 minutes until golden and crispy.
5: Carefully remove the fried crayfish (which look like popcorn) from the oil using a slotted spoon and drain them on a tray lined with paper towels. Repeat with the remaining shrimp.
6: Arrange the “popcorn” in a bowl, piling them high, and season with a pinch of smoked paprika and a little salt to taste. Finely grate some grapefruit zest over the top. Serve immediately with the mayonnaise.
