Since reopening in 2023, Emanuele Cozzo’s restaurant has found a new identity. In the kitchen, Giacomo Zezza’s philosophy is to focus intently on ingredients and explore the world of plants.
The restaurant
Since its reopening in 2023—a move stubbornly pursued by Emanuele Cozzo, who originally founded the restaurant in 2013—Bistrot 64 has avoided ostentation both in the dining room and in the kitchen. Instead, it has adhered to the principles of a true bistro: technique in the service of the ingredients, all within an atmosphere that is both elegant and informal. And in these (almost) two years of its new life, Emanuele and the kitchen team led by Giacomo Zezza (the restaurant’s sous chef during Noda Kotaro’s tenure) have worked to create a clear identity for the Bistrot, which has drawn on the foundations of its past history to reinvent itself and (re)introduce a substantial, well-defined cuisine to Rome.
The restaurant has undergone changes in its menu, table settings, wood paneling, and ingredients to reflect its new direction, culminating in the achievement of a Michelin star in 2017. “We’ve now reached the standards that define us; we’re on the right track” comments Emanuele Cozzo, who has always been adept at identifying culinary trends and infusing his establishment with an international flair.
The Philosophy
Like any self-respecting bistro, at the center of the dining room stands a small wooden counter for those seeking an even more unfiltered experience. Guests can choose freely from the à la carte menu or opt for one of the two tasting menus, featuring 5 or 8 courses, priced at €75 and €95 respectively. The five-course tasting menu pays homage to some of the restaurant’s classic dishes, while in the longer tasting menu, Giacomo Zezza alternates creativity, instinct, and signature recipes.
Attention to detail and remarkable technique highlight the full maturity achieved by the Roman chef of Molise origin: “I like to study ingredients in depth and work with them to make them the absolute stars of the dish, using just a few elements to compose it,” says Giacomo, who, since his arrival, has also focused his attention on the world of vegetables. Fermentation, charcoal grilling, and human touches define the various courses on the menu, with a small section dedicated to traditional first courses. The culinary philosophy of Bistrot 64 is a constant challenge for the pairings curated by Andrea Paretti, maître d’ and sommelier, who offers a smooth and attentive service. The wine cellar features about 200 labels , where Italy is well-represented by producers and winemakers who bottle authentic wines that tell the story of their terroir, thanks in part to Paretti’s own scouting efforts; to round out his training, he worked at wineries.
The dishes
At Bistrot 64, the meal begins with an Italian-style aperitif featuring homemade fennel tarallini, dried tomato paste, and grilled olives flavored with oregano. The second snack consists of five bites, including a carrot tartlet with almond ricotta, spherified red bell pepper gel with roasted eggplant babaganush, and chawanmushi (Japanese custard) with spring onion tops and red radicchio. The tasting menu emphasizes vegetables, featuring the dish that symbolizes the restaurant’s rebirth: Orvieto black lentils cooked in a perpetual broth (since 2023) and served with leek cream, roasted leek, and various textures of hazelnuts.
Cauliflower, white chocolate, and orange is a perfect example of how the chef explores ingredients: the vegetable is transformed in texture and flavor, first baked in foil and then grilled with a glaze of tamarind and orange syrup, finally paired with a remarkable quenelle of white chocolate. Oyster, artichoke, and green pepper plays with the classic beef tenderloin recipe, with the oyster seared over the grill and then drizzled with green pepper cream foam. Aromatic and umami-rich.
Beef, beetroot, and onion highlight the homemade smoked and dry-aged beef in a raw dish, accompanied by a delicate base of caramelized onions. The extra touch? Dried meat powder. One of the most surprising dishes is the Spaghetti alla chitarra with Swiss chard and sorghum, tossed in a Swiss chard extract and finger lime granita, with a surprising base of sorghum cream fermented with rice koji that imparts a captivating savory flavor.
The second starter is a tribute to foie gras, served inside a Bottone with sultana cream, azuki beans, bread miso, and chervil leaves. A technically accomplished and comforting dish.
Monkfish and puntarelle once again features the smoky flavor imparted by charcoal grilling, which gives the fish a firm texture and rich aroma, finished with a superb pil pil sauce. The meal concludes with a sunflower seed granita topped with frozen pear spheres, helichrysum ice cream, homemade Greek yogurt foam, and a pear gelatin veil. A beautiful combination of ingredients that strikes a balance between sweetness and acidity.
Bistrot 64
Via Guglielmo Calderini, 64, 00196 Roma RM
