Michele Talarico, executive chef of Téa del Kosmo restaurant in Livigno, embraces sustainable mountain cuisine that is waste-free.
The philosophy
A timeless atmosphere, where the mountains are embracing the tastes of those places, presenting them on the plate and making them a wonder. At Téa del Kosmo, one of the very first fine dining restaurants in Livigno, the experience is unparalleled. Time seems to stand still at the moment when, seated at the table, everything quiets down and the heart begins to beat more slowly, grateful for the gift received. The mountains all around protect that peace, the restaurant becomes a cradle of well-being for those who find themselves enjoying that place.
Deus ex machina of the project is Siria Fedrigucci, who, flanked by chef Michele Talarico and sommelier Giada Rosa, is inspired by the ethical philosophy of Norbert Niederkofler, a three-Michelin-starred chef and Green Star for sustainability.At the center is the concept of sustainable mountain gastronomy, which is committed to enhancing the products of the alpine territory. The cuisine is brought up to date with a menu capable of enhancing the essences of the forest and alpine pastures, in an ongoing dialogue with producers and breeders.
"I chose this philosophy of cooking because respect for nature, for raw materials and all those personalities that make their use possible are essential to me - affirms the chef - and this implies the nullification of waste in all its forms ” Not just one tasting, but two: a vegetarian one, where each course is made using a single vegetable ingredient in all its parts, and one centered on the story of Michele's life journeys, ready to be enjoyed on the plate.
“The most beautiful thing for those in the restaurant business is to see the satisfaction painted on each person's face when they sit down and get involved in the magic of the food and atmosphere,“ comments Siria Fedrigucci.
The tasting
Thirteen words, nothing else, to describe an unprecedented gastronomic experience. Siluro, Testina, Ricordo, Carota, Contrasti, Salmerino, Casoncelli, Pomodoro, Trota della Valmalenco, Capra, Gallina, Cavolo viola and Croccante... just brushstrokes of color on the canvas of the chef's creativity.
Talarico designed his menu by looking at the composition of plant and animal ingredients in their entirety: flowers, leaves, husks, bulbs, seeds, roots, and skins can thus become the starting point for different culinary preparations in order to create dishes that include all parts of an ingredient. The incipit of the tasting is a wonderful Buckwheat and rice tartlet with torpedo mantecato, fennel mayonnaise, cherry sauce, and soused cherry. Thus, just the first course is enough to be immediately immersed in the local cuisine, where typical elements act as the alpha in this circular taste journey.
We continue with the Crispy Head with Gorizia rose emulsion, and then we come to a dish that touches the chords of emotions of the past and not for nothing is it called precisely Ricordo. It is a Japanese pudding made with dandelion extract and dandelion oil, a wonderful pampering capable of opening distant drawers of memory and making us feel decidedly at home.
Because the beauty and uniqueness of this experience is the continuous exchange there is with the room. The very knowledgeable Imanol is able to guide the guest through a fun journey of play at the table. So between riddles and discoveries, one becomes a child again in that treasure chest in the middle of the mountains that is the Téa del Kosmo. Also participating in this piece of gourmet fun is sommelier Giada Rosa, who will guide you to the perfect pairing, favoring local and Northern Italian labels.
The tasting then continues with a fun course: Carota, a good example of how a wonderful dish can be born from a single ingredient. A vegetable solo of this vegetable, one of Michele Talarico's signatures from the opening: a double-cooked carrot (first steamed and then grilled) that expresses the full potential of earthy flavors, where a multitude of flavors and textures embrace a single star ingredient. The sweet-and-sour glaze is made from irregular carrots that would otherwise have to be discarded, as is the tuft of carrot, also used in the dish.
It then continues with Contrasti, a pate of Bruna alpina and crispy kumquat pasta sheet, and with Salmerino, where the fish is matured 15 days, enriched with spruce, elderberry, fermented raspberry and mountain herbs. Topping it all off is a water of lettuce and radicchio, made from the outer parts of lettuce that are normally thrown away. Casoncelli in rabbit stuffing, glazed crayfish with lentil shoyu, rabbit bottom and bisque are then served. This is followed by a course preceded by a riddle from Imanol: “What do you think is on the plate?” And although everything would suggest spaghetti alla chitarra with tomato, it is actually fermented plum with basil oil and cave cheese.
Next is served the Valmalenco Trota ingot marinated with trout garum, barbecued, trout blood sausage, trout emulsion made from its fat, trout liver roe and mountain herbs. A complex and delicious dish that leads to the next step of the tasting: flat bread with beer-braised goat, celeriac cream, parsley oil and red turnip sauce. Closing the savory dishes section is a course that knows how to be the most comforting of all: wild chicken broth. Dulcis in fundo, comes the part most awaited by every sweet tooth: dessert...strictly vegetable.
To prepare the stomach the sorbet with compote and meringue, all with Cavolo viola. A tasty preamble for the Croccante, namely verbena tuile, yogurt mousse, salted caramel, frozen honey crisp and pollen. And with a course like this, following the red thread of pure and surprising flavor, how can an evening not be mind-blowing? To make it special is a record player playing for you, very few place settings and who knows, maybe looking out the window you may catch a glimpse of a few snowflakes coming down from the sky to make your night even brighter. A warm embrace of taste and welcome here at Téa del Kosmo.
Contact
Téa del Kosmo
Via Bondi, 473/D, 23041 Livigno SO
Phone: 346 115 2048
