Where to Eat Around the World

Alberto Carballo: "Some pay €270,000 to dine with me." The Casa Cruz phenomenon

by:
Sveva Valeria Castegnaro
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Arriving in America without knowing English and with no money, today he is the chef of New York's most exclusive restaurant, even hosting Leonardo Di Caprio.

The restaurant 

For many, New York is the city that never sleeps, but for Alberto Carballo, it turned out to be the city where everything is possible. The 37-year-old chef, originally from Cortiguera - a town in Cantabria, when he decided to fly across the ocean and land in the Big Apple, didn't know anyone, had a few coins in his pocket, and didn't speak English; today, however, he is the executive chef of Casa Cruz, the most exclusive restaurant in Manhattan. "Without English, without knowing anyone, on an adventure. That's how I arrived in the United States," the chef tells La Razon.

alberto carballo ICAL
@ICAL

Despite the numerous difficulties and obstacles that lay ahead, Carballo didn't lose faith; after all, he chose to leave Madrid - where he already worked with great chefs - to fulfill his very personal American dream. "When I arrived in New York in 2010, I tried to translate job ads as best as I could, and until I could afford a room, I lived in a hostel for a month." Serendipitously, during that period, the Lizarrán restaurant chain was about to open a branch in the city. Alberto stepped forward, and the company became the sponsor for his visa—perfect timing. Just when the first significant obstacle seemed to be overcome, things got complicated again: "Reality turned out to be very different; the job was not at all what they had promised us," the chef continues. Carballo had to wait a bit longer to spot the golden opportunity; an opportunity named Manzanilla, Dani Garcia's first restaurant in Manhattan.

IP204 CasaCruz Vogue 4TopTable2 Hero2
Casa Cruz @Vogue

"As soon as I learned about the opening of Manzanilla, I sent my resume, and within 10 minutes, they called me": this was the real beginning of the journey through the kitchens and gastronomic influences that characterize the New York scene. However, the pandemic arrives, paralyzing everything and everyone, and Carballo decides to return to Spain to seek comfort in his homeland. It's the end of 2020 when, once again, thanks to Dani Garcia, the chef from Cortiguera has the opportunity to return to New York for the opening of Casa Dani, a gastronomic space dedicated to Spanish cuisine. "I developed the menu of Casa Dani with him, and it was a true learning experience," he confides, recounting the period spent as the executive chef of the restaurant. In New York, however, one never stops, and so does Alberto: as soon as he is contacted by a headhunter through Linkedin for a position at the prestigious Casa Cruz, he has no hesitation.

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"I started working at Casa Cruz and approached the kitchen through various projects, all in secret until they confirmed that the position was mine." An opportunity that doesn't come twice. The establishment on 61st Street between Park and Madison Avenue, founded by Juan Santa Cruz, is not just a restaurant: "Usually, the kitchen is the most important thing, but not here. There is harmony in everything: in design, music, light, unobtrusive service, and perfect food," he continues. Spread over five floors, with a breathtaking terrace open all year round, Casa Cruz includes numerous bars and dining rooms. Both the main restaurant and private rooms are adorned with works by David Hockney, Andy Warhol, Louise Giovanelli, and Fernando Botero. Every detail of the decor is meticulously designed: from green velvets and Chinese fabrics to murals on bathroom walls and even the staff uniforms designed by New Zealand stylist Emilia Wickstead.

Casa Cruz New York Weston Wells
@Weston Wells

And if everything is exceptional at Casa Cruz, so are its most loyal customers. The 99 members, regular guests, have paid an associational fee ranging from €240,000 to €270,000 to enjoy benefits in booking the most exclusive tables and rooms; among them, Leonardo Di Caprio and the Red Hot Chili Peppers. Always evolving and fully immersed in the New York reality, when asked about his future plans, Carballo responds: "There is an internal struggle within me; I don't know whether to open my own restaurant or not, but it's not easy due to the difficulties it entails. The biggest challenge for a restaurateur in the Big Apple is making his business work and standing out among the 23,600 existing enterprises."

IP204 CasaCruz
 

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