Losing a star is undoubtedly one of the most traumatic experiences for an ambitious chef. But Philippe Chevrier of Domaine de Châteauvieux flaunts resilience: "The pillars of life are love, friendship, health, and work. Not the Michelin."
The news
The Michelin guide to Swiss cuisine has just been presented, raising the usual dust. While Olivier Jean at Atelier Robuchon in Geneva has earned a second star, Philippe Chevrier of Domaine de Châteauvieux left it behind after thirty years of brilliance. As usual, the queen of guides provided no reasons, and hypotheses piled up, whether classic cuisine was now resting on its laurels or attempting a media coup by striking an institution that seemed untouchable.
The chef accepts it, even though he contests the way it was done. "The guides have consistently bestowed us with unchanging praise over the years, praising creativity, the quality of the dishes, and the excellence of the products. A month ago, the Michelin chief editor visited us, thanking me and assuring me that she had a wonderful evening. Two days later, we receive a reservation for two people. The guest arrives alone (they always do), and he thanks me at the end of the meal. Everything went perfectly. He pays with a Michelin card and leaves in a Belgian car with Michelin tires. I'm 98% sure he was an inspector. Finally, last Saturday, we received a call informing us of the futility of participating in the ceremony since we lost a star. Châteauvieux has had two stars for 29 years, 29 years of hard and passionate work. After all this time, if something is wrong, if there are imperfections, the least would have been to inform us. It is a total lack of class," he explained in an interview with Tdg (Tribune de Genève), interviewed by Jérôme Estèbe.
"Do you remember the new three-star restaurants in France? I don't. Instead, everyone remembers Guy Savoy's demotion. Losing a star makes people talk. Michelin has joined forces with Tripadvisor, which is an enemy of the restaurant industry, where anyone can spew venom about a place without even setting foot in it. How is it possible that an institution like Michelin associates with something like that? Will comments on Tripadvisor in the future determine the rank on Michelin? It was very tough at the moment. Our manager was crying. But we have to move on. I am the captain who sets the course. I told my staff not to blame themselves. We work for the customers, not for Michelin. And our customers are loyal. What does an inspector represent compared to 18,000 people a year? Besides, we still have a 19/20 rating from Gault&Millau."
From a culinary stand point, he adds, "We are against trends, which come and go. Do you remember molecular cuisine? We have never followed trendy cuisine, but rather a product-driven one, without compromises. It's a cuisine of cooking, sauces, extraordinary ingredients that I learned from great chefs. If I were to change it for some reason, my customers would have something to say. But I've been cooking for them for 36 years. The journey has been long and difficult, but I won't give up. On the contrary, I feel galvanized. I'm naturally optimistic. I look to the future with serenity. The pillars of life are love, friendship, health, and work. Not the Michelin."
Cover photos: @Immomag
