"I believe the desire to dine out is still there; it's just a matter of looking at the price." The chef of Nisei, a restaurant specializing in Japanese-Californian cuisine in Los Angeles, has struck a balance between excellence and budgets by lowering the price of his short tasting menu to $130 and then raising it to $193.
Everyone tackles the crisis in their own way. Much has been said about chefs who have raised prices, often to better compensate their staff. But there are also those who are taking the diametrically opposite approach. For instance, David Yoshimura, the chef of Nisei Restaurant, hopes to counter inflation by popularizing his 13-course tasting menu.
To be honest, the trend had already been set in motion. In Los Angeles, concise and affordable menus are setting the trend. For example, Nightbird at $85, Sorrel at $98, and the renowned Birdsong at $225 instead of $295. Yoshimura has chosen to follow in their footsteps, offering a series of 13 tastings for $130, alongside his longer $232 tasting menu, called "Essentials." This "Essentials" option includes matcha tea and soy milk to take home for the next day. And it's been a success, with about half of the guests choosing it.
However, not enough to continue solely. "It was a good experiment. But from my perspective, it wasn't satisfying. Selfishly, I want people to try the full menu. That's why I do all this work." Many of those who ordered the "Essentials" option stumbled upon it through platforms and were not accustomed to fine dining. As a result, they often complained about the small portions and lingering hunger.
The solution was a 13-course option at $193: the hope here is to maintain the quality standards and retain both types of clientele. "Essentially, it's the lowest price possible for break-even," Yoshimura admits.
Furthermore, he intends to increase the number of diners and continue to profit from beverages, which at a cost of $135 for pairing represent the restaurant's primary source of income. The cooking style is also unique, blending Japanese techniques and Californian ingredients in a modern way. Certainly, the crisis has affected even this establishment. "I believe the desire to dine out is still there. Ultimately, it's just a matter of looking at the price."
