Born in 1995 and surrounded by a group of youngsters born in the '90s, the young Martin Lazarov has found fertile ground to express himself in the former residence of Prince Nicolaci, now the San Corrado in Noto. His dishes are fresh in concept but already riped in execution.
The Hotel
Noto is a sought-after destination: a UNESCO heritage site and an international capital of Baroque architecture. It's a place with timeless charm, one that characterizes the unique beauty of a region like Sicily. The San Corrado in Noto is situated away from the bustling town, in a blissfully secluded location perfectly integrated into the surrounding countryside.
Once a noble residence and a farm owned by Prince Nicolaci, it's now a splendid resort with twenty-six suites, each featuring its own patio. Two of these suites even boast private pools and all modern comforts. In addition to the eight villas nestled among olive trees, palms, and orange trees, each with its own pool and larger patio. While amenities like a gym, a spacious spa, and tennis courts are available, the nearby beach club is just a short shuttle ride away, providing the opportunity to relax on a private white sandy beach and enjoy the clear waters of the sea.
On the northern side of the resort, an extraordinary pool stands out – the "One Hundred Blue," a one-hundred-meter-long pool inspired by the shape of classical ancient Greek and Roman baths. Another spacious pool overlooks the Hostaria Casa Pasta, led by Mattia Lorenzo, born in 1994, where one can savor dishes inspired by the island's typical recipes, as well as excellent pizzas.
Leading the establishment is a highly experienced manager, Rita Pili, formerly at Relais San Maurizio in Piedmont. Heading the food & beverage project is the young chef, Martin Lazarov, born in 1995, surrounded by a group of individuals born in the '90s, like the maître and sommelier Benito Scatà, with a prestigious past that includes time at Ciccio Sultano's Duomo for a couple of years. "I attended a bilingual scientific high school; my inclination towards languages led me to tourism and hospitality. However, I distinctly remember falling in love with this industry one New Year's Eve long ago, starting with service and then moving on to explore a wide range of vastly different culinary experiences, from the simplest to the highest level of fine dining. And now, here we are with Martin and over forty collaborators, including Lorenzo Breda, born in 1996, assistant maître, Venetian, studying in Pollenzo, with a bright future ahead."
What unites all these individuals, beyond their immense professionalism, is genuine smiles and a love for a demanding profession, yet one that's full of gratification. That's why at the San Corrado, an atmosphere prevails that complements the luxury of the place with a sense of well-being. Then there's the same love for cooking that Martin Lazarov has felt since he was a child: "It's always been like this, ever since I was in the kitchen with my mother. When it came to deciding what school to attend, I had no doubts, and I never wavered, because it's something I truly feel."
The chef
His strong dedication to work has led him to operate in quite diverse contexts. Notably, he gained experience as a private chef: "I've had the opportunity to work in prestigious homes, like that of the designer Valentino, taking on responsibilities for important families, always without large teams. It's been a great privilege for me. I've interacted with significant figures who, deep down, want to taste authentic things without excessive embellishments. Word of mouth leads to such opportunities. Many years ago, I was the second chef at a restaurant in Fossano when I received an offer from the Garavoglia family of the Campari Group. It's not simple, but at the same time, if one aims to excel in the culinary field, these experiences should not be missed. It's a highly attractive world, with substantial added value: you have to be capable of everything, from making eggs Benedict to pasta with clams, and hosting the same 'guest' throughout breakfast, lunch, and dinner. There's no room to say no; you don't have months for traveling, nor can you delve into other cuisines, unlike here, where we are part of an association like Relais et Chateaux, and during closure periods, we can travel anywhere: there are people who go to New York, Paris, Peru..."
At Principe di Belludia, a gastronomic restaurant with legitimate and well-founded ambitions within the establishment, Martin expresses himself through a cuisine that aims to be highly personal while also embracing a pluralistic approach, as he deeply believes in the value of teamwork, rejecting a division that often leads to conflicts: "We want it to be us who succeed here. Cooking demands a lot of study, and I am essentially a technician, a perfectionist. I need to convey something of myself and of the team. So, everything is prepared and served fresh, with no sous-vide cooking. Even the amuse-bouche are finished in the moment."
And Martin is wise, because when asked about his most important goals, he emphasizes guest satisfaction and the happiness of his team. "I want the team to be satisfied, happy, to see a future in what they do, a path to follow. One of the most beautiful things for me is to sense a peaceful atmosphere where everyone is focused and aligned, not because it's my goal, but because they believe in it and care. We know that being a chef is a particularly stressful role: I've worked in kitchens where life was difficult, where you were afraid to speak up or express yourself. From the moment we have the opportunity to create a different kitchen, why not do it?"
The dishes
While Scatà curates the cellar, which already boasts around three hundred and fifty labels and is growing, and the cuisine equally presents itself as solid, with the potential to gain recognition on high levels. We sampled the menu with delight. Starting from the amuse-bouche, nothing is predictable. For instance, a perfectly cooked crustacean, the blue lobster, marine plankton, and beurre blanc. It's prepared in a court-bouillon with ginger and basil and served with Kombu seaweed. The base of the dish is marine plankton; the dressing is done tableside with beurre blanc.
As delicious as the blue lobster bao is, the Agnolotti del plin which are equally remarkable, featuring black Nebrodi pig, Ragusano PDO cheese, and Ibleo black truffle. The pasta is, of course, homemade. 33 egg yolks are worked into a black truffle butter and veal jus; at the base of the dish is a cheese foam, topped with truffle. Spaghettoni, peppers, caviar, and red prawn from Mazara del Vallo: the spaghetti is blended with red pepper extraction, red pepper butter, and black garlic cream; then, Oscietra caviar is added, along with a brunoise of the same crustacean.
Notable for their vegetable essence, the Trottole di Gragnano IGP from the Pastificio dei Campi are combined with red pepper butter, vegetable jus, and spinach and celeriac extract. The succulent Pigeon, Gillardeau oyster, and pak choi are executed to perfection. The pigeon breast is slow-cooked at low temperature in a milk, cream, and black pepper infusion and then glazed with its own juices. The pak choi is sautéed with a Japanese-style vinaigrette made of soy sauce, oil, and tosazu vinegar. The deboned leg is stuffed, breaded, and fried, accompanied by an oyster mayonnaise whipped à la volée.
Last but not least, the Agrume, coconut, and caper dessert is a small masterpiece of pastry technique. Based on coconut dulce de leche, vanilla biscuit, peeled citrus, Pernod-marinated citron, coated Salina capers, caper leaves, pomegranate foam, black sesame ice cream, and crispy orange wafer. Speaking of technique, the soufflé is impeccable. Classic and vanilla-flavored, its temperature is balanced with Grand Marnier ice cream. It's served with a mille-feuille of puff pastry interchanged with lemon chantilly cream, caramelized strawberry carpaccio with maple syrup and rice vinegar, and a light balsamic reduction. These individuals are ones to watch.
Address
Il San Corrado- Principe di Belludia
