Thirty kilometers from Parma, in Fragnolo, Locanda Mariella, an institutional Bib Gourmand; here the overall vision of the innkeepers echoes mightily, the consequence of knowledge matured and refined over time. A synthesis of insights, expertise and ties, so it has been consolidated, making them custodians of a legacy capable of meaningfully combining past and present.
Heartfelt thanks to Alberto Blasetti, author of some images included in the body of the text, taken from the official website locandamariella.it
The territory
Fragnolo - a village of Calestano in the mid-Apennines - in the province of Parma, can be reached via a series of winding curves: if you ever go there for the first time, we strongly advise against driving the route in an old methane-powered Panda, otherwise you will have to equip yourself with holy patience and a rosary (the smartphone's notches will abandon you as you go uphill anyway). We are just a few kilometers from the epicenter of the so-called Gastronomic Capital, better known as Food Valley, the promised land of good food lovers.
Not a destination, but a state of mind: in the evening, the air impregnated with charred wood escaping from the chimneys will penetrate your nostrils, while the fine mist will follow you, blurring your vision, from the hairpin bends to the clearing that hosts Locanda Mariella, Bib Gourmand selected by the Michelin Guide.
L’ecosistema a sé stante non è studiato per fronzoli come tacchi a spillo e minigonne, ma per intrepidi in jeans e maglioncino, senza puzza sotto al naso, dotati di buon gusto: un gigantesco murales ad attenderci, impresso post pandemia da Paolo “Zero T” Capezzuoli, classe 1968. Attraverso il linguaggio della street art, quest’ultimo celebra l’essenza di marito e moglie. Sono proprio i proprietari ad accoglierci nella loro casa, che hanno condiviso difficoltà e successi, oggi si presentano come due osti creativi, capaci di farci sentire da subito a nostro agio.
La storia
In principio - a metà degli anni ’60 - per volere di Adriana e Virginio, presero piede una trattoria e annessa botteguccia dove gli abitanti del paese (all’epoca 250, oggi una trentina) potevano svagarsi, ma soprattutto radunarsi per bere e per ascoltare le notizie in tv, l’unica in zona. Mariella, la figlia, rientrata dopo il periodo passato a Bologna a studiare storia contemporanea, decise di rimanere, nonostante tutti i dubbi e gli interrogativi che si era posta sul futuro e sulla strada giusta da intraprendere.
The restaurant became a hotspot for vacationers, for those who ventured out of town on weekends, and for those who craved homemade delicacies. However, in the 1980s the hills began to depopulate, many small neighboring establishments were forced to close, and what's more, zero-mile ingredients, a hallmark, were now insufficient or unavailable to please everyone.
The philosophy
One must make reservations 24 hours in advance, sending an e-mail and indicating the tasting menu one prefers among the three available: land (45 euros), seafood (50 euros) and tradition (40 euros). Shopping for ingredients is done according to the number of place settings, maximum 15, with the ultimate goal of limiting waste, preserving the physical and mental well-being of the staff, and respecting the clientele by offering them only the fresh of the day, an interesting and unusual policy.
Crossing the threshold of the facility one ends up catapulted into Guido Cerioni's magical corner, a room entirely dedicated to music; the sound system reflects his innate passion for Hi-Fi. While in the lounge he flaunts his deep interest in wine and spirits, offering focused advice dictated from the heart.
After covid, the need to return to simplicity is felt, and after a series of changes, the balance based on roots and conviviality is reestablished. The 1,000-or-so label card disappears, as does the “infigheting,” a characteristic that never belonged to the couple and the rest of the family.
The cuisine
The service is punk rock relaxed, informal, as is the modus operandi in the kitchen: at the stove Kuni Onuma, a Yokohama native with an Emilian heart, and Joyce Mazzocchi, assistant chef and dessert maker.
We begin the journey with a welcome composed of a soft focaccia with slices of mortadella, extra virgin olive oil by Simone Setti, the King of cheeses from Del Fante Damiano's dairy in Ravarano, and local salami, after all, the ancient art of pork butchery was developed centuries ago in these places. To accompany a glass of Jurancon Sec Vintage Vielh, by Clos Lapeyre, from Southwest France made from Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng grapes.
We carry on, intersecting land and traditional dishes throughout the evening: freshly seared cardoncello mushroom with mashed potatoes and Japanese green sauce, made with a hint of wasabi, and a plateau of Ruliano di Riano prosciutto crudo.
As first courses of anolini di stracotto-inside toasted bread and some thirty-month Parmigiano Reggiano--in beef and chicken broth, repassed three times to remove any impurities; and ravioli of egg white only stuffed with guinea fowl, cremina alla carbonara and wild broccoli.
The boneless lamb shoulder, later reassembled, first baked, then pan seared, with its base, honey and mustard and pak-choi was a nice discovery. Definitely more classic was the braised guanciale with red wine and dried porcini mushrooms.
We end with two spoon desserts, one made with Manjari Gran Cru dark chocolate cookie, dulce de leche namelaka, passion fruit jelly and caramelized pecans; the other with green apple coulis, syrup, not too sweet, with gin added to refresh, white chocolate namelaka, ginger, almond powder and Maldon salt crumble, butter and cinnamon.
Conclusion
There is nothing incomprehensible about the formula conceived and then applied, each element seems to fit into the environment in a completely natural and spontaneous way, creating a harmony that captures all five senses, and deeply engages those who experience the unforgettable experience. A symphony of details, the result of careful thought and design, it conveys authenticity and lightness, making the highly sought-after setting unique, far from what we normally experience.
Contact
Locanda Mariella
Address: Locality Fragno, 59, 43030, Fragnolo, PR
Phone number: 0525 52102
E-mail: mariellagennari77@gmail.com
