Jacopo, Paride and Luca have established a sustainable trattoria in the center of Teramo, a city in Abruzzo endowed with innate, under-exploited potential. The fledgling initiative has brought a breath of fresh air that had been missing for some time, stimulating a dynamic evolution of the restaurant scene.
The Territory
Nestled between the slopes of the sleeping giant, the Gran Sasso, the highest of the Apennines, and the endless whisper of the Adriatic Sea, here is Teramo, populated since ancient times, embraced by two streams, the Tordino and the Vezzola, which carry water between the hills and the center like vital arteries. Strolling through the cobblestone alleys, there is a nostalgic atmosphere: the stones of the Romanesque cathedral dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta stand adjacent to Piazza Martiri della Libertà and Piazza Ercole Vincenzo Orsini, exactly on the ancient cardo, alignment of Corso San Giorgio, Cerulli and De Michetti. Looking up, the 50-meter tower is not only a religious symbol, but a soul with an elegant profile that watches over its inhabitants.
As evening falls, gone are the shadows reflected by the last rays of the sun, silence and stillness, sinuous glimpses and iridescent lights cross Interamnia. Closing your eyes for a few moments, you will seem to hear the magical notes of Ivan Graziani, carried far away by gusts of wind.
In Largo Proconsole, in front of the statue of Sor Paolo, walled in a house along the Corso di Porta Romana, at the height of the Church of the Holy Spirit, is Entroterra Trattoria Sostenibile, a temple of three young people guided by the strength of a common desire. They walk into the unknown, hoping to see, sooner or later, meaningful changes. Driven by the hope of renewing the reality of a city that has seen them grow up, they do not know, or are still unaware, that that dream is becoming tangible and concrete.
The team
Jacopo Divisi (27) and Paride Furia (28) in the kitchen, the former self-taught, passionate about baking, the latter with an established experience behind him, first at ALMA, then at Roberto Proto's Saraceno, a Michelin star on the outskirts of Bergamo; and Luca Mercadante (31), in the dining room, a first-rate sommelier, trained at Enoteca Centrale (TE), here they met for the first time.
They call themselves, humbly, three grandchildren made in Abruzzo who have inherited their grandmothers' gastronomic baggage. Eager to pass it on outside the home, they decided to set up on their own, after experimenting here and there around the province, where a historic inn once stood. On March 28, exactly seven months ago, they opened their 'family-run' restaurant, because although they are not blood-related, they perceive each other as brothers. Lending a hand when needed - again to stay on topic - Vera and Ludovica, Jacopo's partner and sister respectively. Two ladies who deal with something else entirely in life, but who manage with elegance and discretion to handle the service excellently.
Though brave, they took the path fearfully, aware that the common thought is that people do not go out to eat to enjoy the great classics because there are those who prepare them better at home. And then the debut as a new entry among the pages of Gambero Rosso's Guide Ristoranti d'Italia 2025 and in Slow Food's Guide Osterie d'Italia 2025.
“We did not expect all this,” declares Divisi excitedly. "This is the third menu we offer, the first one was traditional, although visually we tried to imprint an authentic trace, for example the timballo we served with a mousse, something you rarely see around. The flavors obviously do not touch, ours is a cuisine of remembrance."
Philosophy
Some took them for fools, others knew their worth, in short, one step at a time they built an intimate space where they could accommodate thirty people, both enthusiasts and the wary.
The young people have responded well, primarily by selecting raw materials, which are 90 percent sustainable, and seasonal “We only source from small local distributors. Dairy products come from the Phoenix Goat, at this time we will be releasing the last semi-milk with the remaining milk. After that we should find a worthy replacement. The pasta is from Verrigni, a pasta maker founded in 1898." Second, renovating the facility, making it minimal and warm.
"Also, we try not to throw anything away, so much so that in the appetizers we played with offal. Initially, mazzarelle was supposed to be on the menu, but endive is now not to be found, ditto for Savoy cabbage, which by custom should take frost, unfortunately today's thermal conditions do not help. Our choices are rational, closely related to the territory”.
The dishes
We start with the chefs' welcome, a three-meat patty on creamed pumpkin and spinach powder, a vibrant amuse-bouche with a delicate vegetal note that anticipates the level of the following courses.
We continue with the star of the evening, veal tongue, roasted squash, salsa verde, anchovy mayonnaise and rice chips. Low-temperature cooking preserves its tenderness and natural juices; thin slices like satin ribbons, hydrated and juicy, are laid on the bottom and sprinkled in abundance with the dressing, what can I say but gustatory bliss. Paired with a pure Cococciola sparkling wine, an indigenous white berry variety of the region, from the Paride D'Angelo cellar.
It is the turn of fried cheese, an unfailing typicality, this time in a rice crust, Podere Francesco plum jam and tomato powder, intense. The elements have been skillfully repurposed in textures, the crispness of the crust clashing harmoniously with the stringy interior, while the acidity pushes through without overlapping the rest.
Perfectly balanced is the organic CBT egg Mediterranean style, potato mousse and black olive earth, a delicacy for those who love simple things. You slowly discover the melting, velvety heart, evoking the fervor of the earth and its precious fruits. My advice is to savor all the ingredients in a single spoonful, an enveloping and distinct caress. A beautiful truth that reveals itself slowly, illuminating the path of those who interpret it correctly.
As a first course we got pappardelle with beef, pork and lamb, pear jam, which enchants, and raw milk Pecorino, with a strong character, paired with a glass of Chardonnay Alto Adige DOC Kellerei St.Pauls, a fresh and fragrant white, on the fruity finish; a combo that underlines Luca's care and enthusiasm.
With veal cheek, cream of carrot and potato, and risen savoy cabbage it is an easy win, although not all patrons appreciate the cut: it melts in a bite, every fiber separates without resistance, so the execution is flawless.
We end on a high (and sweet) note with a vanilla and chamomile panna cotta, with frozen blueberries, sauce and cocoa crumble, bitter and chocolaty just right.
Conclusion
Of the activity we particularly appreciated the constant desire to improve, and the smiles on the faces of a new generation that deserves to be supported now and in the future. The strong, silent and respectful energy that defies the conservative mindset is a powerful and indispensable tool in the hands of those who have no intention of giving up; and with those same hands they sow day by day, with sacrifice, what will blossom luxuriantly tomorrow.
Contact
Entroterra Trattoria Sostenibile
Address:
Via Vittorio Veneto 48, 64100, Teramo (TE)
Cell phone:
+39 328 358 7966
E-mail:
entroterra.te@gmail.com
