They started from Cilento and conquer the MICHELIN in New York! 100% self-taught, Emiliano Cammardella and Rossella Episcopo finally managed to enter the prestigious guide. But what was it that wooed the inspectors?
The story
Emiliano Cammardella dreamt of America in his bedroom in Polla, while rock, blues, and jazz music played on his headphones. A dream from which he never woke up, year after year, as he continued his studies and trained as a designer. He met his wife Rossella Episcopo, also from Cilento, and they got married. In 2012 the two decided to embark on an overseas adventure to work in their respective branches, he in an architectural firm, she as a sociologist.
When the visas expired, the desire to stay was strong. The only way to do it, however, was to set up a business, and the two thought of a restaurant, completely self-taught. “We had always enjoyed cooking at home and for friends, but professionalism is something else,” says Emiliano. “Rossella had to reinvent herself as a chef and she succeeded, while I followed the bureaucratic part, which despite the clichés, is demanding here too. It took a year and a half, almost two, from 2016 to 2018 to set up, because we are in a historic area of Brooklyn, protected by cultural heritage, so every detail, from the single color to small changes, needed an authorization process. This is how we learned the trade along the way.”
The consecration came from the latest MICHELIN guide of New York, which describes the place: “If you find it hard to find good food at a good price in Brooklyn's South Slope, then you haven't been to Flora. Emiliano and Rossella are behind this welcoming and light-filled place, which retains many of the rustic touches of its previous incarnation (think exposed-brick walls, wood-framed doors, and windows) interspersed with industrial touches. The food is as successful as the setting. The bell-shaped ravioli stuffed with imported buffalo ricotta, seasoned with mullet roe, sliced and sprinkled, fragrant lemon zest, and crunchy breadcrumbs are simple but delicious. Then for dessert, the lemon delight, imported directly from the famous pastry chef of the Amalfi Coast, Sal De Riso, is a bite of sunshine.”
The secret of success? “Calm, passion, tenacity. Because here you don't mess around and there is a lot of competition. We also worked sixteen hours a day, me as a manager, managing staff, customer relations, menu graphics, post covid outdoor spaces; she in the kitchen with some help.”
Since the beginning, the dishes have been an evolution of home recipes: for example, paccheri pasta with cod and “cruschi” peppers, Cilento-style cod or spaghetti with anchovies, breadcrumbs, and raisins, typical of Christmas. No problem on the product front: “Here is the best that can come from Italy, unlike in the past. To my mom, when she wants to send me something, I tell her not to send me anything because I eat the best here. We order some goods from importers, signalling them; while the vegetables are local and organic.”. All wines are from Campania, indeed 90% from Cilento.
Customers are mostly Italians attracted by word of mouth, who feel at home here, but also VIPs who live in the area, musicians, journalists, or writers. And then many young people, especially for the weekend brunch. Out of 36 indoor and 24 outdoor seats, the average bill for a proper dinner for two, drinks included, is $150.
“All considered, it was crazy, but it was worth it. We couldn't handle the remorse of returning to Italy, without trying. Living here is very tough, from when you leave in the morning to when you come back in the evening. But it is a city that pays off for everything. For me, it was like Mecca, and it continues to wind me up every day. We will stay a little longer, even if we begin to feel the call of home. We haven't seen the sea for six years and we could resume our old professions. But a surprise can always happen here, which overthrows every plan.”
All photos courtesy of the venue