Gfell, is not just a hotel, but a place where you can unplug from everyday life and meet nature, amidst the enthralling beauty of the Dolomites, good food prepared with care and skill, and that sincere welcome capable of making you feel at home. This is the history and passion of the Mair family, a story that began in 1967.
Photos by Lorenzo Moreni
THE STORY
Imagine reaching a place where time seems to stand still, a peaceful corner nestled among the natural grandeur of the Dolomites. My experience at Hotel Gfell, a short distance from the village of Fiè allo Sciliar, began like this: with the liberating feeling of leaving behind the daily hustle and bustle to immerse myself in an oasis of silence far from commitments and predetermined agendas. The story of this enchanting reality is that of the Mair family and began in 1967, when grandfather Toni started a simple Jausenstation, or refreshment for wayfarers. Since then, many things have happened and that little landmark for the valley has turned first into a restaurant and then into a hotel.
At the heart of this change is Andreas, who grew up among Gfell's meadows-highest meadows, and in 1996 picked up his father's legacy. With his wife Manuela, he was able to transform that little Jausenstation into the Schönblick restaurant, a gastronomic stop that deserves. And how much it deserves. But their vision and resourcefulness have gone further, not least because of the entry into the business of their son Julian, that is, the one who has taken the reins of management. Julian is young, gritty and with clear ideas. He is the one who tells me about the journey of these years, the choices and important decisions made in order to move forward. To be able to “survive” and make a real breakthrough.
A leap that sees November 2019 as a significant date, that is, the moment when an ambitious project was undertaken, to create a hotel structure embracing the restaurant and the old family barn. In July 2020, the dream became a reality: the Hotel Gfell opened its doors. No longer just a stopping point for hikers, but a place where nature and good food come together in an experience that harmonizes with its surroundings without barriers. In a continuum between inside and outside that fills the eyes.
And that barn built more than 50 years ago by Grandpa Toni, now completely renovated, houses the cozy room where the delicious breakfast with a view is served in the morning (the advice is to enjoy every taste of homemade bread, jams and cakes). The facade, however, has remained the same. Proud symbol of elegant rurality.
THE STRUCTURE, A DIRECT LINE TO NATURE
To the question, “what do people look for and find when they come here?”, Julian's answer is succinctly stark: “peace, good food and lots of wine,” he says, smiling. And indeed this is very true, because Gfell is not the classic Hotel, I realized as soon as I got out of the car. One breathes there an immense respect for the environment, a complete fusion that is well expressed by the very structure of the hotel, built and developed right into the heart of the mountain, but with striking openings that overlook it following its course.
One is enchanted to observe the different evolutions of sunlight from sunrise to sunset. One admires them motionless and enraptured by those much more than large windows, transparent walls that embrace the panorama. So are the rooms, but so is the discreet and refined wellness area, in which time suddenly disappears. And that is what I experienced as well, motionless and spellbound gazing at the mountains while sipping hot tea immediately after the sauna. With nothing to ask, with a light head.
"Nature is a constant source of inspiration for us, as well as the best recharge for body, mind and spirit. We wanted to find a way to share it, to convey its rejuvenating power,", says Julian. Because the truth is that sometimes it feels like we have never really seen how much nature has to communicate, the rush by which we are overwhelmed is not a good conductor of information.
TASTE ACCORDING TO SCHÖNBLICK
“Our cuisine has no labels, we do what we like but the quality of raw materials is the basis on which every preparation rests”. Julian, summarizes the culinary proposal of the Schönblick restaurant in this way. "There is an old proverb that says, ‘love goes through the stomach,’ and we want to bring our love for South Tyrol to the table, which is why for the most part we use local ingredients, which we buy from selected suppliers or in many cases produce ourselves.
This is crucial because if the product is good, the dish will be too”, Julian points out. ” My brother, for example, is a butcher, and the selection of the best meat comes through him. Then of course we also have some elements that come out of the territory, because we get inspired by other culinary traditions and cultures."
The result is a menu that speaks the language of typicality in some dishes, such as pressed dumplings on sauerkraut salad; schnitzel with thick, crispy breadcrumbs; and Fiè Beef, served in its different cuts and with different preparations so as to “use all parts of the animal and show that there is more than just filet.” The influences and incursions of ideas and experiences can be perceived precisely by dwelling on the techniques with which the dishes are made. There is research and you can see it, but no exaggeration; the focus is on substance and concreteness. After all, you come here for that and for the atmosphere. They are a security.
The touch of the courses is elegant, the portions very generous, the taste enveloping and full. In short, satisfaction is not lacking and indeed abounds. It does so even in the desserts, the end of the meal that just has to be there because it would be a pity to give up the krapfen, with pears and homemade plum jam, on vanilla sauce; the buchteln served warm and with that mouth-watering apricot filling; the homemade ice cream made directly by Julian who has now become a true expert.
And since the third ingredient sought by patrons told us to be “lots of wine,” here Julian has found a way to give them satisfaction and ample choice, building a wine list with as many as 230 labels. He has been passionate about wine over time, tasting, traveling, exploring and studying. The cellar is his pride and he loves to advise and knows how to advise. He does it knowledgeably, knowing the producers, pandering to drinking preferences, finding the most appropriate pairing key. He does it with great satisfaction and that freshness of one who enjoys and makes one feel at home.
ADDRESS
Via Gfell 22
I-39050 Fié allo Sciliar (BZ)
Phone: +39 0471 601 136
