Our interview with Norbert Niederkofler on the occasion of the Identità Golose 2025 Congress. From the birth of Atelier Moessmer to his approach to customers, via menu planning and training young people: the great chef talks about his idea of modern catering, which anticipates the future but does not forget the past.
Let's start with the story of Atelier Moessmer, one of the most beautiful restaurants in Italy. Tell us how it came about and the project behind it.
The project was born a long time ago, because I actually live 100 meters from Atelier and for ten years I walked past that house. I used to tell myself, 'One day I will do something here.' Then, after the pandemic stop (and, later, Rosa Alpina's decision to close the gourmet), I took matters into my own hands: 'Now we do it!' The idea was no longer to set up a classic restaurant-I didn't want that, because I had been doing it for so many years. So we started from that very house and left it as it was, preserving its history: being under the protection of the Fine Arts, you couldn't touch much. On the other hand, we tried to bring out the best from the setting by working on the acoustics, music, lights and colors, to return a “home” feeling . Even putting a sign outside, where you play and it says 'welcome home' - that's how we want to make people experience this new adventure.
There is also a lot of focus on hospitality, a chance to see the guys in action with the open-plan kitchen-a contemporary haute dining concept.
Of course, that's true! Maybe in recent times we have moved a little too far away from the concrete dimension of the restaurant; maybe we were no longer looking at the customer as we should. Maybe we need to rethink what is really important to us. For example, I became a chef because I liked the kitchen as an environment: there was this fantastic room, this warmth, this desire to sit at a big table. With Atelier Moessmer we tried to recreate that, and I have to say that the results are showing: now that we have been open for a year and a half, customers appreciate and look forward to their mealtime, but most of all they enjoy it, because they spend some really enjoyable time. They are involved in the project, they empathize with the story of the work he requested; the guest is involved not only in the food, but 360 degrees. To get him or her into our world as best as possible.
Your menu tells the story of the area, but before it is served it is prepared as early as 6-9 months in advance. Tell us what this planning work consists of.
The philosophy of Cook the Mountain, in the end, can be applied anywhere in the world. In Sicily, in Calabria, in Austria, in Germany, in America: everywhere. Of course, the mountains are the most complicated, because for four to five months nature “sleeps” and nothing can be found. But this concept is not new: these are all old traditions, old methods that we make our own, and that can be extremely useful to us in facing modern challenges, today when the problem is feeding 10 billion people. Especially to use 100 percent raw material, avoid waste, and not throw away reusable food. It must be said that the old methods can be complemented by technology; the customs of the past, however, generate incredible flavor explosions and send us back to childhood. Of course, by completely changing ingredients each season, you end up with four menus that in turn completely change color, textures, philosophy-just because you no longer make the rules, nature does!
In your journey as a cook, you anticipated the future with a revolutionary project. How do you see, today, tomorrow?
My biggest step was Cook the Mountain, while the ones we are doing now are the result of the vision that came out of it: all logical practices to ensure the conservation of biodiversity. What I am doing today-and what I want to do more and more in the future-is training: I think many cooks need to pass on their knowledge, for a very simple reason: if we don't share ideas, the project dies with us. But I think Cook the Mountain is too important to make it die, so I try to give everything possible (and the impossible) to young people, to the next generation or to those who are currently working with us. We share every single thing, making sure that this thought reaches our children and children's children.
Then here's a “fun” question: in our opinion, one of the best dishes a human being can eat in his or her life is your apple tarte tatin. How long has the dish existed and how long did it take to get there?
How long has it been in existence? It was born with Andrea Tortora, when he was already at Rosa Alpina; then Alessandro Bilecci also worked with Tortora, so the dish evolved over time. However, this is a non-classic cuisine, more: super classic! You have to know how to make pasta sheet, you have to know how to make caramel, you have to know how to choose the right apple, and then-obviously-also match the right ice cream. So, in its simplicity this is a very complex recipe, exactly like a spaghetti al pomodoro: the simple things are the hardest to make. That is why it is a dish that will remain in the memory for a long time. The truth? I sometimes say, “Make one,” then eat half of it! I love it so much.
