Hispania restaurant in Arenys de Mar, near Barcelona, is celebrating 70 years of culinary tradition and a long history of loyalty to its origins. Born in 1952 as a simple street bar, this restaurant has transformed the legacy of its founders, sisters Paquita and Lolita Rexach, into an iconic place for Catalan cuisine. The formula? Ignoring passing fads and sticking to simple, homemade recipes, the ones that have been served on the restaurant's table for generations, now under the leadership of chef Raimon Braun Rexach and his partner Marta Aulestia.
Home cooking that fascinates celebrities and not only
Hispania is frequented by personalities of all kinds, from artists to royalty, who find in these flavors a sense of authenticity and simplicity that is now rare. Famous faces who have tasted its dishes include Gabriel García Márquez, Manuel Vázquez Montalbán, and Robert De Niro. Each dish is designed to evoke the flavors of yesteryear, with quality ingredients and recipes that have remained unchanged over time. “When young customers say that our fried cod reminds them of their grandmother's, we understand that we have touched a deep emotion,” explains Aulestia.
A menu tied to the seasons and authentic flavors
Hispania's menu changes with the seasons, following the rhythm of the garden and the sea. Some signature dishes include clam suquet, fricandó with eggplant, lobster stew with potatoes, and Llavaneras peas accompanied by the typical Catalan butifarra. This is a vast repertoire, but one that fails to always be available: there are many traditional recipes, and each dish is made from scratch, as Paquita and Lolita did, following a recipe book that represents a true family heritage.
Modest origins and its transformation into a historic restaurant
It all started with a gas station run by Paquita along National Road II. The young woman offered drinks to drivers, until one day a truck driver asked for food, and she improvised with sardines and escudella. From that day on, the restaurant became a rest stop for truckers, until it turned into a restaurant and then a hotel for tourists in the economic boom years. As tourism dynamics changed, Hispania closed the hotel part but continued as a restaurant, becoming a reference point for traditional Catalan cuisine.
A family cookbook and a passing of generations
When Rosario Suró died, founder Paquita and Lolita devoted themselves passionately to Hispania, even receiving a Michelin star. The cuisine has remained as it always was, founded on a strict respect for traditions. Now, it is Raimon and Marta's turn to carry on this legacy, with the same commitment. "We defend the traditional Catalan cuisine, the one that represents us and that we consider part of us, ” says Raimon, who trained among the stoves of the family restaurant and then gained experience abroad, while keeping alive the link with his roots.
The value of the product and the relationship with suppliers
For Hispania, the secret is to work with high-quality raw materials from local and trusted suppliers. Ties with local restaurant gardens and historic producers, often third-generation, ensure the authenticity of the flavors. Top products include tomatoes, Canet beans, fresh fish, and seasonal vegetables. "Without good raw materials, you can't make good food. We have always collaborated with local producers, many of whom we have known for decades, “ says Raimon, defending the value of the area and its excellence.
A familiar and welcoming environment
Another secret of Hispania's success is the atmosphere in the dining room, passionately managed by Marta and her staff. Regular customers feel at home, greeted by name and guided to their favorite table. Marta stresses the importance of harmony between the dining room and the kitchen: "It is crucial that the whole team works in harmony, from the welcome to the final greeting. Every detail is taken care of to make our guests feel welcome."
Timeless cuisine and the memory of home flavors
Hispania represents a unique testimony to traditional Catalan cuisine, a “temple of memory” that has resisted the temptation of culinary fads. Dishes are made with love, inspired by now rare family recipes. It is one of the few restaurants left in Barcelona that offers authentic flavors of home, as gastronome Philippe Regol notes, “These places are our history and part of our heritage.” And it is this sense of memory that allows Hispania to continue to enchant generation after generation.
