Concrete, thoughtful dishes without rush. This is the signature of Fundim Gjepali, leading one of the most esteemed kitchens in the capital since 2008: atop the Gianicolo Hill, Antico Arco draws the Roman audience.
The story
Rome is the most beautiful city in the world, according to everyone, in their own way. For me, the most beautiful Rome is the one at the beginning of summer, that warm orange, silent because it's emptied of the post-work traffic. A slow and blissfully solitary Rome, to be admired while sitting at the table of one of the most beloved restaurants for Romans.
I'm at Antico Arco, the establishment that has dominated Piazzale Aurelio on top of the Gianicolo Hill for 30 years, right in front of the Garibaldino Museum. A natural platform overlooking the Capital, unique in its kind, steadfast in the quality it manages to convey to the customer once you cross its threshold. The history of this sign begins in 1996, and 17 years ago, it enriched itself with the presence of Fundim Gjepali, Executive Chef free to express technical knowledge, familiarity with the ingredients, and to leave his mark on an ancient table only in terms of its existence. Thanks to him, since 2008, the business has undergone a slow but steady transformation that defines it as a "restaurant of contemporary cuisine but with authentic and true flavors."
Fundim, of Albanian origins, arrived at Antico Arco after working in prestigious international kitchens. Without becoming too attached to local recipes, due to his origins, his study, and his curious eye, he allowed himself to be influenced and softened by exotic forays. The stoves are a blank canvas for him, a means to express what he desires without the need to pigeonhole himself into a specific culinary style: the chef plays with the ingredients, giving each dish its own dimension. The foundation of it all? Exceptional quality raw materials, maturity, and expertise in working with them. From meat to fish, through vegetables - to which Fundim, with an enlightened gaze, pays particular attention, dedicating a special tasting menu to them.
The restaurant
It is a must, in the warmer months, to arrive just before sunset and take a seat at the outdoor tables of Antico Arco to enjoy all the shades of the sunset; then, at dusk, when a pastel air gives way to streams of darkness, stay in silence listening to the whisper of the birds. The restaurant consists of 5 rooms spread over two floors, with 120 seats in the indoor dining rooms and another 85 in the charming outdoor space. But that's not all: what adds a timeless charm to the environment is undoubtedly the wine cellar, located in the catacombs of San Pancrazio, where carefully arranged are 20,000 bottles from over 1,000 selected wineries from Italy, France, and the rest of the world. Ask to visit it, and you won't be disappointed.
Antico Arco's menu offers customers the opportunity to choose between two tasting menus, one of which is vegetarian. In addition, there is an à la carte menu with a range of dishes, some historic and others newly created, always characterized by elegance and seasonality. The raw amberjack with lime and ginger, lemon thyme, as well as pigeon with red wine reduction, and Fassona Piemontese tartare with smoked foie gras, caper powder, and 36 months aged balsamic reduction are among the signature classics of Fundim's cuisine.
"Globalization certainly deserves credit for transforming various ethnic cuisines into one great international cuisine; however, it must be said that very often authentic and genuine recipes have been distorted, turning them into a kind of junk food. An example of this is the kebab. Here at Antico Arco," the chef continues, "I wanted to do it justice by offering it in a gourmet version, made with duck and lamb meat, both cooked at low temperature for 24 hours. It is served on the plate with mixed greens, cumin, cucumber, tomato, and two sauces I created."
This is how the chef describes another of the dishes he is most attached to: the "Slightly Open and Spicy Kebab," where the Balkan influences are clear and pronounced. Lastly, a detail that underscores Antico Arco's ability to keep up with the times: the kitchen operates continuously from 12:00 to midnight, a Non-Stop service that allows everyone, Romans and tourists, to enjoy a great taste break at any time of the day.
The dishes
The welcome from the kitchen is disarmingly simple, a taste of bass cooked at low temperature, green sauce, yellow cherry tomatoes, and confit red cherry tomatoes. A thoughtful, concrete, unhurried dish, a manifesto of Antico Arco's cuisine. And as I wait for the first appetizer of the tasting, here comes the bread basket with excellent focaccia and rosemary grissini made in-house, onion bread, and homemade bread, "Perfect for the 'scarpetta,' which is a must here at Antico Arco," the chef tells me. The first appetizer is clean, balsamic: the raw amberjack pairs wonderfully with lime and ginger, perfectly proportioned in an excellent manner. The rough and vegetal note is provided by bright green beans, left deliciously crisp.
More substantial, and always excellent, is the Loch Fyne salmon with tzatziki sauce and tomato bread crumbs. Classic pairings, executed exemplarily, make this appetizer the favorite of the dinner. The one with cuttlefish and peas is also outstanding. The just-seared mollusk is crispy to the bite, flavorful, and fresh. The peas in various textures add color and sweetness to the whole. Everything is perfect: the right balance of salt and spiciness.
Staying in the realm of classic flavors, I tackle the famous Carbonara with "Mancini" spaghetti and black truffle from Antico Arco, probably the most ordered dish in the restaurant. Expectations are high and they are met with the first forkful, with perfectly al dente pasta, paired with a balanced, not overly aggressive cream. What sets it apart? The texture and cooking of the guanciale, as crispy and delicate as few others.
The lamb with hazelnut and almond crust, lime creamy potatoes, and radish crudité is rich and full of flavor. A complex and complete second course, featuring a complementary blend of textures and flavors.
Don't miss the desserts, from the refreshing Mojito ice cream with lime, mint, brown sugar, and rum served as a granita, to Alchimia, a yogurt mousse with cornflake biscuit, pistachios, caramel chocolate, raspberry sorbet, and pea shoots.
Address
Antico Arco
Piazzale Aurelio, 7 – Rome
info@anticoarco.it
TEL. 065815274
Open from 12pm till midnight. Closed on Tuesday
