Gualtiero Marchesi (1930-2017), the founder of modern Italian cuisine, transformed the culinary art of our country. The first chef in Italy to lead a restaurant awarded three Michelin stars, he inspired generations of chefs (and others) and left an indelible mark on international gastronomy.
Born in Milan in 1930 to a family of hoteliers, Gualtiero Marchesi worked in his parents' restaurant from an early age. His professional training began with an apprenticeship at the Kulm in St. Moritz and at the Lucerne Hotel School in Switzerland (1948-1950).
He later honed his skills at prestigious French restaurants, including Ledoyen in Paris, Le Chapeau Rouge in Dijon and Troisgros in Roanne. In 1977, he returned to Milan and opened his own restaurant on Via Bonvesin de la Riva, quickly earning one Michelin star in 1978; two in 1979, and, for the first time in Italy, three in 1985.
Marchesi is credited with revolutionizing Italian cuisine and opening the door to a universal language: he introduced an innovative approach that combined tradition and modernity, placing the quality of ingredients and aesthetic presentation at the center of the dish. Among his most famous creations are Rice, gold and saffron, an icon of contemporary gastronomy, and Fish Dripping, inspired by the art of Jackson Pollock.
Throughout his career, he has trained many talented chefs, including Carlo Cracco, Davide Oldani and Andrea Berton, and has contributed to the spread of Italian culinary culture throughout the world. He has received numerous awards, including the Gold Medal for Merit in Culture and Art in 1990. In 2004, he founded ALMA, the International School of Italian Cuisine, with the aim of passing on his philosophy to new generations.
In 2008, he decided to return the Michelin stars, declaring that he wanted to "return to the freedom of creation", a courageous and enterprising decision by a maverick. According to him, the real judge of a dish is the customer, not the guides.
In the last years of his life, Marchesi continued to be a leading figure, publishing books and participating in cultural projects. On December 26, 2017, he passed away in his hometown at the age of 87, leaving an unbridgeable void in the industry. His work is now perpetuated by the Gualtiero Marchesi Foundation, so that his legacy continues to influence gastronomy professionals and enthusiasts around the world, cementing his legendary status.
