"I think palate fatigue is a real problem for many wine professionals, who are disadvantaged by having to taste too many glasses at once. My method allows me to maintain a different objectivity." Josh Mesnik's twist.
The sommelier
In the food and wine scene, the role of sommelier evokes tight tasting sessions scenarios, but what happens when this figure chooses “the path of sobriety”? Josh Mesnik, sommelier and founder of Josie & Tony's in Connecticut (honored for his outstanding wine list at the Wine Spectator 's 2024 Restaurant Awards), represents just that singular combination: an expert who, while not downing a single drop during daily tastings, guides his guests through unforgettable experiences.
Mesnik's journey into the restaurant world began in 1999, when, at a very young age, he took his first steps in some of New York's most iconic restaurants. Driven by a passion for theater, he soon discovered that the most fascinating set design is one that features plates and glasses. There, among elegantly set tables, Mesnik honed his ability to tell stories through wines, realizing that each bottle is a work of art that tells the story of the year, the land and the soul of the person who made it. In 2003, however, Mesnik decided to give up alcohol and the restaurant business, convinced that the two worlds were incompatible with his well-being, as journalist Rachel King recounts in a beautiful interview in Forbes. But, like all great passions, the one for wine brings him back. After a year away, he is back at it with a new vision: to become a “100 percent sober” sommelier.
No small feat, considering that the industry is dominated by tastings and toasts. Mesnik, however, takes a meticulous approach, tasting wines carefully and spitting them out immediately afterward - an expedient, admittedly, chosen by many occasionally (but not all outright), which allows him to continue his journey without taking alcohol. “I want to make it clear that this is not something I recommend to anyone: a small amount of alcohol is still absorbed by the gums but, by not feeling the effects, you lower the risk of addiction. I also believe that palate fatigue is a real problem for many wine professionals, who are disadvantaged by having to taste too many glasses at once. My method allows me to maintain a different objectivity and offer varied options to customers."
So, his experience allows him to develop a special sensitivity in evaluating wines. Without the temptation of an extra sip, Mesnik focuses on structure, acidity, tannins and aromatic complexity, evaluating each wine with an attention that few can boast. But his talents do not stop there: Mesnik has devised a course focused on non-alcoholic beverages, creating a range of pairings that is no match for traditional alcohol pairing. Josie & Tony's, his semi-private club, is the perfect stage to showcase this innovative vision. Inspired by legendary New York restaurants, the venue combines a nostalgic atmosphere with modern, inclusive hospitality. Here, guests can enjoy a meal that reflects a healthy and fulfilling philosophy of living without sacrificing quality or creativity. Attention to detail is evident in every aspect of service, from the water filtered to enhance its flavor, to the single-origin coffees and mocktails crafted with the same care given to traditional cocktails.
The success of this approach is not limited to drinks alone. Mesnik and his team, led by talented mixologist James Lucchesi, have created an entire non-alcoholic tasting experience that captivates and surprises guests. One example? A five-course menu paired with fine grape juices and hopped cider, culminating in unique creations that reflect the club's ability to reinvent the concept of culinary luxury. “The non-alcoholic trend is not only of interest to teetotalers: sometimes, people who like to drink wine want to try something else interesting, or start the tasting with non-alcoholic offerings and then move on to glasses. It's part of being open-minded, having an equally curated experience, regardless of starting preferences."
And how did the guests respond? Enthusiastically. The growing trend toward a more conscious lifestyle has found in Mesnik a pioneer, able to offer an experience that respects each individual's choices. Its non-alcoholic pairing proposal is not only for those who choose not to drink, but also for those who wish to experience new flavors without the influence of alcohol.
