Villa La Massa: a luxury retreat in the Tuscan countryside just minutes from Florence

Surrounded by greenery just a few miles from the hustle and bustle of the city: a place of quiet peace, full of comforts under the banner of unshouted luxury and gentle simplicity. Plenty of amenities for those seeking relaxation and those who can't sit still, as well as two restaurants and a bar.

The place

Imagine arriving early in the morning at Florence Santa Maria Novella, and immediately immersing yourself in the city, amidst the hubbub of people, the flags of tour guides so you don't lose your group, perhaps taking a tour of the Uffizi museum, Piazza della Signoria, and then getting lost in the overwhelming maze of streets in the center steeped in history, always packed with visitors and - undeniably - chaotic. This is where overtourism, so much talked about these months, arrived years and years ago. So there comes that time when you need a break from people, from chaos, from noise. Villa La Massa is the place that will fulfill this need perfectly.

Within 15 to 20 minutes by car you'll arrive at this 13th-century Medici residence, whose grounds overlook the Arno and are surrounded by hills that convey peacefulness. You are in Florence, but also at the entrance to the Chianti area. You are in Tuscany, and you can breathe it in at the top of your lungs.

The facility

Villa La Massa since 1998 has belonged to the Villa d'Este Hotels group, which also finds place on Lake Como. Here on the banks of the Arno River, there are no less than fifty-one rooms and suites as well as three private apartments, located in six different buildings, which have been modernized over time by the property, yet the most iconic elements of the original structure and furnishings have been kept intact, with some peaks of fair and moderate contemporaneity.

While on the one hand it is the river that establishes a natural boundary for the villa area, the complex is immersed in a 25-hectare park and on the horizon is a seamless panorama of vineyards and olive groves. The Villa is part of the association Grandi Giardini Italiani: splendid in fact is its Giardino dell'Iris, in homage to the flower symbol of Florence, a place of particular quiet and enchanting scent. The communal areas feature a heated swimming pool, a lobby, a bar, two restaurants - L'Oliveto Bistrot and Il Verrocchio - that operate one for lunch and the other for dinner (and are open to non-resident guests), as well as a fully equipped gym and the Arno SPA, for those seeking total wellness.

Many activities are offered by the team headed by Elisa Peroli, who comes from many years of experience within the Four Seasons group, and who, since her arrival-early 2023, has brought a burst of energy and ideas. The facility is open and operational from late March-early April to mid-to-late October; the closed months are used for maintenance, the making of improvements, and planning new activities for guests.

The activities

The day can be spent relaxing by the pool: there is also a menu, available from 10 A.M. to 7 P.M., from which you can order food or drinks while lying on one of the loungers available to guests. The Arno SPA allows you to add further wellness with its Turkish bath, sauna, spa with whirlpool and sensory showers, and an area with two SPA suites - one of which is for couples - for massages and treatments enveloped in the scents of Tuscany.

Among the activities offered are cooking classes. The goal is to entertain guests, not to teach them some gourmet dish, but to give them some tips, for example, on how to make pici or how to prepare a good ragu. In short, not didactic, but a fun pastime and a true immersion in Italian and Tuscan culture. Soon, manual olive harvesting will also be introduced, followed by a visit to the olive press with a tasting of the new oil, golden yellow and already used internally by the kitchen team. Space will also be made for drawing and painting lessons in the villa's gardens.

On the other hand, for those who just can't sit still, a golf course, a tennis club, and a riding school where you can take horseback riding lessons are just a short distance away. Organized tours by Vespa or car (but also by hot air balloon!) are also available to experience the Tuscan countryside at its best. Not to be underestimated is the presence of a shuttle that connects with the center - Ponte Vecchio area - and departs from the facility and the city between 8 A.M. and 8 P.M. once an hour, available on a first come first served basis: a very convenient way to get to and/or back from Florence. The facility is also available for the organization of private events, even of medium to large size: there are many weddings celebrated in this beautiful canvas framed by nature. This is where David Bowie and Iman were married in 1992!

The food and wine proposal

The Executive Chef is Stefano Ballarino, who leads a brigade of 18 people and is in charge with the coordination of F&B Manager Andrea Alvarez, of the overall management for the property's entire offerings, from breakfast, to the menu served poolside, through room service and Sunday brunch.

Stefano has been within the group for a long time, since three years here in Tuscany, he seems very comfortable in his role and as part of the working team, this is reflected in the kitchen and in his approach with customers. He never misses his rounds in the dining room between the tables of the two restaurants, and he is always very open and available to satisfy curiosity and to receive comments and suggestions. The retention rate of his team members is worth noting; despite the fact that this is in fact a seasonal establishment, he has managed for the past couple of years to confirm virtually all of his elements. The quality of work and life for employees has always been one of the group's fundamental pillars. In the post-pandemic years, this aspect has become even more relevant and heartfelt, finding full support from the chef. Chef Ballarino's approach to the menus of all the signs is that of a great dialogue with the territory, first and foremost in terms of product research, with a few useful digressions of route subservient to the final taste. In addition, the construction of the dishes reflects the influence of Tuscany, the chef's homeland, combined with his Trentino (and Apulian!) origins, as well as culinary experiences gained in England.

The clever conception of the various menus on offer is based on the search for a simple, but never banal Italianità, sublimated in the small Italianità menu perfect for an international clientele, which offers great classics such as eggplant Parmigiana or pici cacio e pepe, and is available at Il Verrocchio and at the bar, Bar Mediceo. Andrea Di Costanzo directs it, a little gem that boasts a short cocktail list divided into two sections, one dedicated to the history of the Villa and its illustrious guests, such as the Like a Virgin dedicated to Madonna. The other Como-Florence section offers refined drinks, creating a connection between the group's two establishments. 

The rich breakfast served in the hall of Il Verrocchio also deserves a mention. A splendid buffet ranging from sweet to savory awaits you each morning: cakes, cookies, waffles, pancakes, cold cuts, salmon, fresh and dried fruits, as well as a brioche and bread corner, and much more. In addition, table service includes tea, coffee, and a choice of two homemade juices, as well as the possibility of ordering eggs prepared in all sorts of ways. Also present is a large section of packaged gluten-free products.

Oliveto Bistrot

The restaurant's most informal and Tuscan offering is here, just a few steps from the heated pool, in a relaxed setting with the possibility of dining outdoors as well, under a lovely patio that shelters from the sun on hot days. The menu perfectly matches the atmosphere: fresh appetizers, first and second courses ranging from meat to fish, without a search for a “forcibly” vegetarian dish, also because tradition helps, between pappa al pomodoro and pici all'aglione.

The pizza offerings are also interesting, ranging from the classics to some cues from the local area such as Tuscany, with restaurant prosciutto crudo, Pecorino and arugula. We tasted the Tuscan amberjacks with a white country ragu, a sauce made with chicken giblets, which was enjoyable in seasoning a format that gets wrapped up perfectly. Also noteworthy was the gelato, made entirely in house, with a chocolate sorbet that brings out the best hints of cocoa and a notable Bronte pistachio.

 Verrocchio

This sign-open like the others even to non-residents - comes with its covered terrace overlooking the Arno: a space that knows how to be intimate and perfect for a candlelight dinner, but also lends itself to more convivial tables. The interior rooms, thanks to their large windows, allow for magnificent views, especially at sunset, of the surrounding hills.

The proposal is refined and well balanced for being within a hospitality establishment. One finds purely Tuscan dishes, Italianità, and a few “research” dishes that approach an idea of fine dining that is accessible even to less trained palates. In short, a menu that can satisfy both international clientele in search of Tuscany vibes, but also local patrons who want to escape from the classics. Service is perfectly dosed with flashes of energy and brilliant courtesy from Vassilis, a waiter of Greek descent, who entertains guests with a unique kindness of spirit and spontaneity. The chef for some dishes suggested Russian-style service to enhance even more the work of the room, such as the Fiorentina steak cut in front of the guests, or again the plating of the pigeon Wellington style. The wine cellar, which is being overhauled and expanded, is located on two rooms below the restaurant, is well stocked between Tuscan, Italian and international, and can also accommodate more intimate dinners or tastings.

The dinner that seals your refreshment away from the hustle and bustle can thus begin: in the background is a piano at which girls and boys from a music academy take turns during the week to practice public performance.

The dishes 

The appetizers we tried are fresh and simple in flavor but not without personality. The carpaccio of amberjack marries the cucumber barattiere - here's Puglia! - and green tomato: two vegetable products that would not be ripe but as ancient tradition dictates are made the most of, and in this case with a good dose of simple creativity. It brings up the flavor level of the dish by the presence of caper leaves. The cold soup of red and yellow tomatoes is a nice play of colors, textures and flavors. Two velvety tomato soups - one red and one yellow - are balanced to the bite by a tomato mirepoix; it is then up to the delicate sweetness of the almond cheese - made in house - to confront the acidity of the dish. Among the first courses to highlight is the risotto with nettle, candied onion, bagna cauda: probably the most surprising dish, with an interesting balance, which can vary bite after bite, surprising for the peaks of sweetness and earthiness.

Also very interesting was the raviolo: a dish that tells the story of Tuscany through an ingredient - the black cabbage-and a preparation - the peposo. The chef found a filled pasta with the two elements mixed together unbalanced; so he decided to separate them into a large raviolo, alternating the two fillings. To give a touch of acidity and prepare for the next bite a light stracchino sauce. Among the main courses, we were able to taste the pigeon Wellington with carrot butter and liver chocolate with cocoa grué, elaborated by chef Ballarino following a “challenge” with an English colleague who had come to visit him in Tuscany. Challenge perfectly won with masterful cooking and the carrot delicate but effective in its intent to enrich the dish. The stick with the liver chocolate is definitely suitable for lovers of strong and decisive flavors - a real game between flavors.

The dessert Limone closes an experience worth trying-even if you do not stay overnight on the property. Especially if you want to try to tiptoe out of the ordinary city, without the desire for too many special effects in an enchanted and calm place, just a few kilometers from Florence.