Gianluca Ricci, chef patron of Locanda San Michele, has brought fine dining to a gastronomically desolate area. The result? Fine dining, simple but unmistakable dishes, and a customer focus that, while not manic, is genuine and sincere.
The territory
In the province of Teramo, between Montorio al Vomano and Tossicia, stretches an area of great scenic interest, right at the foot of the Gran Sasso: in the foreground are rounded hills dotted with sheep pastures and cultivated fields; on the horizon the sleeping Giant. Several hiking trails wind from here, some leading to the mountain, back roads, valleys, plateaus and inhabited hamlets.
During the day you can enjoy extraordinary panoramic views; on the contrary, at night it is difficult to locate the right direction, since the absence of light and distinct landmark sites, make orientation uncertain, especially if you do not know the area. This is why I suggest setting Contrada Camerale on Google Maps, until you come across a dirt slope.
The restaurant
The exterior is brightly lit and atmospheric: the structure features a large canopy, designed to shelter tables and chairs from the heat and direct rays during the summer. The stone floor has a rustic, uncluttered look, while from the large windows and vestibule, framed by a sleek black metal frame, we catch a glimpse of the inside room.
Crossing the threshold I had the perception that despite the small space, there were elements that amplified its depth without weighing it down, the large gold-framed mirror for example. Below, a petrol-green, velvet sofa mixes with the surrounding atmosphere. The brick walls are emphasized by wall sconces and hanging lanterns; on the other hand, the rough wood counter with pronounced grain, the focal point of the room, blends with the essential details of the mise en place: the heterogeneous tables, paired with chairs in neutral tones, and set with sober, minimalist table linens, or with leatherette placemats, break up the monotony. As does the double-drawer cutlery box on each station, “I never liked to see waiters replace the dishes, you have to be free to choose what you eat with,” , explains the owner. The dark, gridded ceiling lends an additional industrial touch to the ambiance.
The chef and sous chef
Welcoming us are the chef, Gianluca Ricci, and his sous chef and curator of the wine list and pairings, Davide Mercolini, both from Abruzzo and former students of the Di Poppa-Rozzi Hotelier Institute, who, while maintaining strong ties to their home region, have accumulated varied experiences around the world.
"My career path began back in 2009, more precisely in April, when L'Aquila was partially destroyed by the earthquake. A few days before I left for Venice, I had been offered an opportunity at Hotel Saturnia, where I had done an internship as a boy,", the patron says.
"After that I moved to London, went there aimlessly, not having many pretensions. As luck would have it, I found a place at Apsleys, Heinz Beck 's one-Michelin-starred restaurant at The Lanesborough, between Knightsbridge, Belgravia and Mayfair. It was a year and a half full of discoveries; I learned a lot there. Later part of the brigade, including me, moved to Rome, to La Pergola. As we moved up the ranks the duties changed: I was even called to take on the role of sous chef at Castello di Fighine in Tuscany. In short, I've come a long way: I've worked at Pipero's Rex, at Crescenzo Scotti's Cappero (Michelin star in the Aeolian Islands), atHotel Cipriani's Giudecca 10 , at the Opificio in Padua, managed a restaurant in Fontana di trevi, and toured Vietnam and Thailand. Back in the homeland, with my wife and child, I looked around carefully, to get a sense of the situation: there were so many entrepreneurs, exclusively adapting to customer demands and following the trends of the moment in order to make money. In November 2022 I met 'the partner', he had come to leave his resume at Carducci Bistrot. I recognized him right away and contacted him; without knowing it he took my place when I left La Caravella and Silvano Urban, life's strange joke, and it was precisely I who hosted him in the English capital when he came for a consultation, only I was too busy at that time, and I only had time to hand him the keys to the apartment without being able to chat. Fate wanted to bring us together!".
"I was 14 years old when I began to approach the industry, pushed by Professor Roberto Sterlicchi, the latter believed I was more suited to cooking, although I had always been passionate about mixology. Back in Italy, after the brief stint abroad, I was taken by Guido, in Rimini, as head of the batch. In 2020 I worked with Marcello Rossi on the Adriatic coast, then I gave a hand to Enzo di Pasquale, and finally I decided to set up on my own. Unfortunately, the adventure did not last long because of the pandemic. The rest is history,", declares Davide.
After an intense succession of events, the intrepid people transformed what was once a pub into a gourmet, giving the location back an identity and downsizing it from 80 covers to 25. So the opening takes place in February 2023!
The dishes
The welcome entrée was anything but shy, we were served tarallo pepper, suet and almonds; eggplant carpaccio macerated in beet juice, at the base a turmeric, peanut and edible flower mayonnaise; olive mousse tasseled with parsley oil; vegetable-filled cannoli; steamed pizzette, ricotta cheese, carrot cream and lardo di colonnata; a reinterpretation of a local classic, Easter evergreen, lamb cacio e ovo, placed in shells laid on straw, and enriched with pecorino mousse; walnuts and gorgonzola, echoing the Locanda's logo. All small finger foods, scenographically impeccable, super plentiful, with which I would have ended the evening directly - in beauty.
Accompanied by a glass of Trento DOC Brut Millesimato Endrizzi, some Rabottini di Chieti olive oil, crusco bell pepper breadsticks and two different types of bread, with blueberries and figs, hazelnuts and dark chocolate, obviously home made.
A butter candle literally blew me away; it was a pleasant surprise of which I had not been warned. A pampering towards diners, especially those who are easily impressed.
We continue with a coffee-marinated duck ham with foie gras, puffed lentils, and pomegranate in two textures, snow and grains. Again the aesthetics astound, the composition is harmonious, the colors are bright and vibrant, as are the flavors.
The seared scallop with Jerusalem artichoke sauce and chips, mushroom brunoise and porcini consommé, clear and intense, is the dish that perhaps best represents the philosophy of the two young men at the stove, “Our aim is not to overturn, we prefer to follow the school of the master Heinz: few ingredients but clean, maximum three/four”. The combination is designed to enhance without overpowering, well constructed, played on precise balances and soft contrasts.
Hors d'oeuvres end with sweetbreads glazed with brown base and scented with sage, shiny and inviting on the surface, velvety at the heart. The technique ennobles the product, which in itself is considered an offal, being part of the fifth quarter group. It goes very well with a Marramiero Altare, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC.
First propose their workhorse: fagottelli stuffed with cacio e pepe liquid, on top of Mazara shrimp, lime and edible flowers. We are advised to savor them in one bite, and so we do. The explosion effect is guaranteed!
The venison filet with mulled wine, raspberry coulis, celeriac, chestnuts, white truffle shavings and white stock is tender and pink, it means the cooking was done to perfection. Freshness and acidity clash with sweetness, enveloping the taste buds. On the finish the sensation is pleasant, certainly that tickle typical of red fruits prevails.
Leading up to the conclusion, an ace sorbet, encased in a white chocolate sphere, and a fiordilatte ice cream with cocoa crumble, Maldon salt and a drizzle of extra virgin. But what really struck me was the artisanal panettone with zabaglione and coffee air prepared live before our eyes, condensing and magically landing on the plate like a raindrop, inspired by Jordi Roca's dessert-cloud.
Bocconotti montoriesi, parrozzo and moscato complete the tasting, taking me back to when as a child, under Christmas, I used to sneak by the marble peninsula, reaching into the cardboard trays, under the decorated napkins, to steal a few delicacies, intoxicated by the fragrance that filled the living room at home, and the joy of those moments.
“What do you expect from the future?”, I always ask in the doorway already wearing my coat. “We would like to cooperate more with prominent local personalities in the field of food and wine”. And Gianluca adds, "I am currently overseeing the renovation of a farmhouse in Faiano, which will soon become a concrete project, with attached rooms, accessible to the disabled, equipped with amenities, in full Tuscan style. In the meantime, we continue to give moments of happiness; it is what allowed us to enter among the new entries in the Michelin Guide".
Contact
Locanda San Michele by Gianluca Ricci
Address: S.S. 491, 3, Contrada Camerale, 64049 Tossicia (TE)
Phone: +39 3314658909
E-mail: g.ricci89@gmail.com
