The idea for a bistrot by the incredible Campanian chef arrives at a historic Milanese hotel with the help of a top-notch partner, the young Francesco Potenza.
Photo credits: Andrea Ferrari
The restaurant
A chef's greatness is defined by skill before personality: when they can use and serve the character of the simplest ingredients, and not just focus on their aesthetics, it means they deserve to fill their restaurant's dining room. That was the case during our visit to the new Caruso Nuovo Bistrot, partly because the space is quite small with only a few tables, but mainly because Chef Gennaro Esposito brings a shine to everything he touches, allowing the products he uses to speak for themselves.
We are at the Grand Hotel et de Milan, a place with 160 years of Italian history, making it more than just a hotel—it's a genuine Milanese salon, rich with atmosphere, events, and illustrious people who have spent time here. Opened in 1863, just a stone's throw from the Teatro alla Scala, the Duomo, and most popular fashion district, it quickly became part of the city's political and cultural life, still today a gathering spot for celebrities from the worlds of culture, entertainment, fashion, music, and business. It has always been owned by the Bertazzoni family, now in its third generation.
This is where you should make a reservation when you're in the mood for a bistrot (and remember, it’s a bistrot), offering intimacy, just the right amount of informality, a refined and elegant salon, and clean, straightforward, simply good cuisine, which, while not pretentious, is certainly not basic—and it's no coincidence that it's the creation of one of the most talented chefs in Italy.
During lunchtime, business meetings take place, and the goal isn't a gourmet experience but rather well-made, quick dishes with the added touch of comfort that is always appreciated. It's in the evening, however, that the skill and creativity of Chef Potenza come to life. Born in 1989, with proud Campanian roots—specifically from Torre Annunziata, as he likes to point out—Potenza has been leading the Caruso Nuovo Bistrot as the executive chef since its early planning stages, when Esposito decided he wanted him on board.
His past experiences include Villa Franca in Positano, the Quisisana Hotel in Capri, and various collaborations with Chef Salvatore Bianco and Antonio Mellino, with whom he has a strong connection. He was organizing an experience in Barbados with Mellino, but in the end, Milan had a special appeal for Potenza due to its internationality and thriving culinary scene. Naples was starting to feel too small for him, and as he puts it, "I believe in destiny." With everything falling into place, Gennaro Esposito entrusted him with leading this new and delightful venture.
Forget tasting menus—this is a bistrot, as we mentioned: no foams, sponges, or gourmet frills, but intense flavors and a widespread sense of comfort. Especially with the evening menu, which changes frequently to give regulars a chance to experience as much variety as possible.
The menu
Right now, the focus is on seasonal vegetables and legumes—broad beans, peas, asparagus—simple ingredients but each with their own character (as mentioned earlier). Before you start, take a moment at the iconic Gerry's Bar for an aperitif and try the mouth watering fried jalapeño stuffed with cheese, just to get a sense of the substance and flavor that awaits you. Once you're settled at one of the round tables in the center of an atmosphere of lights, colors, plants, and bohemian elegance, as chosen and maintained by Dimorestudio, you'll be ready to dive into the cuisine of the Caruso Nuovo Bistrot (there's also an outdoor area, a veranda with an exotic vibe, always with an all-day dining format).
Among the appetizers, the cuttlefish and peas dish is as delightful as it is virtuous. It's a dish where no element goes to waste—from the dried cuttlefish bone grated for saltiness to the pods used to make the broth for cooking the cuttlefish; the different peas textures allowing a playful mix of flavors; when combined with mint, they add a balsamic note that balances the Trapanese pesto with garlic, cherry tomatoes, and almonds. The pasta soup, an old traditional dish once made with leftover pasta from the drawers at home and a signature of Chef Esposito, here becomes a recipe faithful to its origins but elevated by cooking in different fish stocks, in this case, gurnard and scorpionfish, with lightly seared soup fish chunks (good enough for seconds).
Then there's "Like a Spring Risotto," an ode to the fresh scents and flavors of the season, creamy with Provolone del Monaco and made with white asparagus, fava beans, peas, and orange, which should add an extra boost; the result (with room for improvement) is an interesting recipe but somewhat flat at times and lacking a spark. With the Turbot filled with its own stuffing, served with artichokes, scallions, and potatoes, your palate is treated to the flavorful and well-balanced character of the ingredients used, along with perfectly cooked fish.
If you're wrapping up your meal, it's almost mandatory to try the classic Chocolate Eggplant, a southern Italian specialty, and just as much of a must is the sacred Babà, which we didn't expect to find accompanied by custard and mixed berries, but it turned out to be a winning combination. The pastry chef responsible for these delights is Matteo Ravellese: born in 1996, hailing from Pompei, and possessing a fierce passion for pastry. He trained along the Sorrentine Coast in areas like Castellammare, Vico Equense, and Sorrento (working at the Excelsior Vittoria after three years at Alma).
Contacts
Caruso Nuovo Bistrot
Address: Via Manzoni 29, 20121 Milan
Phone: +39 02723141
