A completely edible pinecone—beautiful to look at and delicious to eat—that’s how this spectacular dessert is made, in which Chef Manu Franco uses Parmigiano Reggiano to create a contrast with sweet and balsamic notes.
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The Essence of the Sierra and the Art of Parmigiano Reggiano: Manu Franco’s Vision
Between Cosecha, Journalism, and a Michelin Star: The Story
There are stories in which fate draws perfect circles, intertwining family roots, vocation, and a passion for haute cuisine. Manu Franco’s story is a prime example: raised amid the aromas and culinary vocabulary of the historic Casa Manolo in his hometown of Valdemorillo, Manu carried his father’s affectionate words within him for years: “Aquí siempre tendrás tu casa.” Before donning a chef’s jacket, Franco actually enjoyed a brilliant career as a journalist at prestigious publications. However, the call of fine dining never faded: in 2019, he chose to radically change course, honing his skills at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu school. From that moment on, his truest dream began to take shape: together with his wife Carolina and a close-knit team of experts, he opened the restaurant La Casa de Manolo Franco, an intimate tribute to his father and a promise of love for a cuisine capable of stirring the soul.
Today, each of his creations captures the essence of the Madrid mountains, a blend of history, technique, and profound sensitivity. In just five years, the restaurant has established itself as an absolute benchmark, renowned for the exceptional quality of its dishes and the warm, welcoming atmosphere reserved for every guest. A journey crowned by the award of a Repsol Sun in 2023 and its first Michelin Star in 2024, testifying to a living dream that continues to make Valdemorillo a culinary destination.
A Culinary Journey Through the “Pinar de Valquemado”
Manu Franco’s cuisine thrives on its connection to the local territory and exceptional ingredients, where Parmigiano Reggiano takes center stage as the link between elegance and cherished memories.
The dessert Pinar de Valquemado is an invitation to close your eyes and let yourself be swept away on a stroll through the forests of the sierra. In the heart of the Valquemado pine forest, enveloped by the balsamic scent of pine resin and dry earth, lies the inspiration for this signature dish: a pine cone that conceals within it a unique and velvety Parmigiano Reggiano cheesecake. To elevate the dish, the chef and his team create an artisanal interpretation of the resin: a syrup made from water and broom honey (miel de retama), produced exclusively by the local youth, infused with small pinecones and pine needles three times over, until it achieves perfect aromatic depth and harmony. A tribute to his native landscape, combined with the primordial memory of cheese enjoyed with honey.
In the chef’s own words
“Parmigiano Reggiano boasts a pure, original, intense, and deep flavor—almost visceral in nature. It is the result of pure ingredients refined by human hands; an ingredient that, once you learn to use it, in a sense makes you a better cook and brings you back to the essence—to what is primordial and natural—just like the blocks of marble sculpted by Renaissance artists.
The inspiration for this dessert came from the Valquemado pine forest in Valdemorillo. There, surrounded by the scent of pine resin and dry earth, we found the pine cones that eventually gave shape to the dish. Inside, they conceal a Parmigiano Reggiano cheesecake, accompanied by pine nuts, carob powder, and our interpretation of pine resin. A dessert that seeks to bring the essence of biodiversity to the table, along with the pairing of honey and cheese»
The recipe: Pinar de Valquemado
Serves 4
JRE - Parmigiano Reggiano “Casella d’Oro”
Ingredients
For the Queso de Pino (pine cheese)
- 120 g spreadable cheese (Queso crema)
- 50 g sugar
- 16 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano
- 8 g goat cheese (Queso de cabra)
For the Glaseado de Pino (pine glaze)
- 80 ml water
- 10 g pine cones and pine needles
- 8 g broom honey (Miel de retama)
- 1 g kappa (gelling agent)
- 1 tablespoon green food coloring
- 1 tablespoon red food coloring
For the Gel de Pino (pine gel) and finishing touches
- 80 ml water
- 10 g pine cones and pine needles
- 2 g pine concentrate
- 8 g broom honey (Miel de retama)
- 2 g thickener
- 5 g pine nuts
- 4 edible flower petals
Procedure
- Preparation of Queso de Pino: Place all the ingredients in the Thermomix mixing bowl (making sure the Parmigiano Reggiano has been grated beforehand). Process for 4 minutes at speed 6 and a temperature of 85 °C. Once a smooth, fluid, and homogeneous mixture is obtained, pipe the mixture into the appropriate pinecone-shaped molds using a pastry bag and freeze.
- Preparation of the Pine Glaze: let the water infuse with the pinecones and pine needles for at least 2 hours. Strain thoroughly and combine the infusion with the broom honey. Then stir in the kappa and food coloring (green and red) until a matte green hue is achieved. Heat the mixture while whisking vigorously. Use this hot glaze to coat the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese pinecones, skewering them from the tip with a skewer about 20 minutes before serving.
- Preparation of the Pine Gel: Bring the water to a boil and let the pine infuse for at least 2 hours. Strain the liquid and mix the pine infusion with the broom honey and thickener. Store in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Plating and Serving
- Remove the pinecones from the freezer 20 minutes before serving. Heat the glaze and proceed to glaze the pinecones.
- Place the pinecones in the designated wooden bowls and let them come to room temperature.
- Just before heading out to the dining room to serve, gently arrange the pine nuts around the pinecone and place a flower petal on the tip.
- Pour the pine gel into a small pitcher and serve it directly at the table in front of the guest.
Restaurant Information and Contact Details
- La Casa de Manolo Franco
- Address: Calle La Fuente 6, 28210 Valdemorillo, Madrid (Spain)
- Email: hola@lacasademanolofranco.com
- Phone / Cell: +34 626 61 57 39
- Website: lacasademanolofranco.com
- Social Media:
- Facebook: lacasademanolofranco
- Instagram: @lacasademanolofranco
- X / Twitter: @mfranco_oficial
