First Courses

Ratanà's “modern cheese pasta”: how to make it according to Cesare Battisti

copertina ratana pastina formaggio

Thanks to the capon broth, the cheese pasta dish from childhood becomes a decidedly mature and multifaceted dish. Cesare Battisti's version.

Procedure

Ingredients

For the capon broth

  • 1 whole capon
  • 2 carrots
  • 2 onions
  • 2 celery stalks
  • 1 ripe tomato
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Peppercorns, to taste

For the Lodigiano fondue

  • 100 g whole milk
  • 100 g hot capon broth
  • 150 g Lodigiano cheese (or a similar aged cheese, depending on availability)
  • To taste, 1 knob of butter to make the fondue richer and glossier.

Procedure

For the capon broth

Place the whole capon, previously cleaned, in a large pot with the carrots, onions (you can leave the skin on for a more golden color), celery stalks, tomato, bay leaf, and a few peppercorns.

Cover with plenty of cold water and bring slowly to a boil over medium heat. When the broth begins to boil, lower the heat and simmer gently for about 2 hours. It is important to keep the heat low, avoiding the broth boiling vigorously, as this could cause it to become cloudy. Skim the broth occasionally, removing any impurities that rise to the surface.

After two hours, the capon will be cooked and the broth will have a rich, full-bodied flavor. Strain the broth through a fine sieve to remove the vegetables and any residue, obtaining a clear, fragrant liquid.

For the pasta

Bring the strained capon broth back to a boil. Add a quantity of pasta (such as stelline, farfalline, or other short pasta for soups) equal to the weight of the broth available. Start cooking the pasta in the broth and stir occasionally.

Proceed with the “risottatura” technique, i.e., add the broth a little at a time, as you would for a risotto, and continue stirring until the pasta gradually absorbs the liquid and becomes creamy. Cook the pasta for about 9 minutes, or until it reaches the desired consistency.

For the Lodigiano fondue

In a small saucepan, heat the milk together with the capon broth. Bring the liquid to a moderate temperature, without boiling.

Add the grated or finely chopped Lodigiano cheese and stir gently until the cheese has completely melted, creating a smooth and homogeneous fondue.

If you want a richer and creamier fondue, you can add a knob of butter and continue stirring until it has completely melted. The fondue will be more substantial and have a shiny appearance.

Assembling the dish

When the pasta is cooked, add 2 tablespoons of Lodi cheese fondue (about 60-70 g) directly to the pot with the risotto-style pasta, stirring to blend the flavors well.

Serve the pasta and add a pinch of cracked and toasted pepper and a drizzle of good quality extra virgin olive oil to give a final touch of freshness and intensity to the dish.

Contacts

Ratanà

Via Gaetano de Castillia, 28, Milan, Italy

Phone 02 8712 8855

Website

 

Ratana80 pastina e formaggino con zucchine 01

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