As the temperatures drop, the anticipation for Christmas grows, among festively adorned storefronts and click-proof e-shops. Here's our selection of timeless and trend-free leavened treats that continue to offer tastes worthy of being shared.
Bedussi
Francesco Bedussi's leavened creation is of a different caliber. Imagine a family-run amusement park of sweets, starting from the gelateria and extending to the bakery, all the way to the latest innovations in pizzas and bistro-style offerings - all within the historic location in Brescia. Add the experience of a young talent who, in just a few years, transitioned from Davide Scabin's school to Enrico Crippa; blend the mix of roots and fine dining, and you have four panettone ready to amaze.
In each, the stringy crumb stands out, thanks to a generous quantity of eggs (note the color) and two well-managed doughs - one in the evening and one in the morning - with a sourdough refreshed three times. We recommend the version with candied fruits produced in the lab over 5 days, but you can also choose the flavor infused with lemon essence alone or the creative variations (semi-candied apricots and double chocolate - both structural and as an insert). Just unwrapped, the fragrance and "cobwebs" of honeycomb cells, capable of leaving a lasting impression.
You can purchase these panettoni with nationwide shipping through the new e-shop at bedussiecucina.com, the Bedussi app, or by phone.
Pandefrà
In addition to securing a permanent place among the veterans of baked goods, Francesca Casci Ceccacci continues to send strong social and solidarity messages, which materialize in concrete actions. This year, indeed, the entire holiday lineup from Pandefrà speaks out with the slogan "Don't force me": a universal "enough" to any form of violence, accompanied by the intention to donate a portion of the proceeds to the Senigallian association "Dalla parte delle donne" (On the side of women).
At the same time, the "no" is needed as a conscious tool for selecting the sweets we choose to purchase, rewarding equally honest and conscientious artisans. The two flavors offered by Pandefrà (Traditional with almond icing, which we will describe below, and Three Chocolates) are both dedicated to simplicity: the slice offers a kaleidoscope of fresh sensations, thanks to the addition of "maison" aromas such as locally made organic orange and lemon paste and whole vanilla, pleasantly assertive. The compact, sufficiently sweet glaze crowns the treat with an added touch of crunchiness. The candied fruits from "Dolci a Cuore," supplied by Riccardo Pelagagge, are juicy and opulent. The product maintains its freshness for several days without drying out or losing its aroma.
The panettone will be available online on the website www.pandefra.it and at the two retail locations in the city of Senigallia.
Luca Pezzetta
We thought that 2022 would be Luca Pezzetta's golden year, with the official debut of Clementina (his modern pizza lab in Fiumicino) and numerous projects aimed at enhancing the outskirts of Rome. Instead, 2023 has multiplied the ideas of the young master of dough, one of the most versatile and knowledgeable in the country. There is, therefore, a new hotspot for leavened products on the wave of the first opening, complete with a seafood 2.0 fast-food spot (Clementino, right next to the main location), the Microforno (where you can quickly purchase the trio of bread, pizza, and pastries), and a high-level production center for semi-finished products.
But let's talk about the panettone (available for the first time in a corner at Fiumicino Airport), whose packaging translates the tasting experience into shapes and nuances. It's the kind of sweet that you could easily recognize blindly after the initial taste: great personality starting from the aromas, which complement the beautiful packaging signed by Slevin. The crumb, silky and hydrated, is soluble but leaves a lasting impression, from the note of fresh butter (strictly centrifuged) to the double Calabrian candied fruits (orange and cedrus). Bourbon vanilla is present in the right measure, without olfactory exaggeration. The development involves three leavening times in 48 hours, allowing Luca to combine richness and lightness, expanding the memory of the Christmas taste each year.
https://shop.lucapezzetta.com/
Panettoni can be purchased at Pizzeria Clementina, the new Microforno (via Giovanni Battista Grassi, 22), or Rome-Fiumicino Airport.
Dolcemascolo
Matteo Dolcemascolo proves once again to be a true artisan. Not only for the consistent standards of the product, crafted manually on every step, but also - and above all - for his versatile taste. The leavened creation from his eponymous bakery in Frosinone (ready to duplicate in the center of Rome, in Viale Giuseppe Mazzini) blends elegance and authenticity in the same dough, thanks to the development of a family know-how that has never rested on its laurels over the years.
The shell of the classic panettone appears lush, well-colored, and a testament to the careful 72-hour leavening, with the ends protruding from the wrapping. As mentioned, the tasting experience is versatile: calibrated sweetness, enveloping but not overpowering butter, vanilla that entices without overshadowing other olfactory notes. The texture is "airy," and the fillings are juicy. Matteo also uses only stone-milled Italian flours, adhering to an "honest supply chain." For filled versions, options range from Chocolate and Pear to Wild Berries, and even the edition with pistachio spread. A new entry in 2023 is the homemade chocolate bars (recommended, for the festive after-dinner, the variant with white chocolate and salted almonds), ready to enrich the historic range of nougats and typical sweets (Tozzetti, Amaretti, Panpepato).
In the shop or on the e-shop
Diego Vitagliano
The skills of a pizza chef is evident, in the best sense of the expression: Diego Vitagliano's Christmas sweets make the grain speak, avoiding the "sweetened" effect to tell a story of good flours and precision in aromas. The dome stands out from the cupcake, the cell is spacious, and the butter does not overshadow the sensation of eating an authentic "sweet bread," whose authenticity is appreciated above all.
Diego produces several versions, from the classic one to the "chocolaty" version with three fillings (Belgian dark, milk, and white), up to the panettone with 100% Arabica coffee, made gently by caramel chocolate. Thirty-three hours of leavening result in a smooth dough, even without pre-tasting heating. A confirmation of the work done in 2023, which brought the young Campanian to the top spot in the 50 Top Pizza Italia and World rankings. For fans of traditional sweets, there is also the winter edition of pastiera, while those who want to create a gourmet pizza independently can use the Croccante kit: all available for easy ordering on the e-shop.
Diego Vitagliano's panettoni are in limited production, available directly at the pizzerias in Bagnoli, Pozzuoli, and Naples (in the new opening in Borgo Santa Lucia, in the heart of the city, from December 5, 2023), with highly recommended reservations (at the phone number of each venue). They can also be purchased online at diegovitagliano.it with nationwide shipping.
Tiri
Vincenzo Tiri doesn't disappoint and produces a sweet of rare fragrance, distinctive, and full of fruit (consider that the native orange variety "staccia" and Calabrian cedrus are still candied in open-air tanks, with a 100% natural process). The level of customization is high, starting from the triple dough with over 72 hours of processing, to the daily refreshment of the family's century-old sourdough. The "fluffy" interior lets the ingredients speak, with changing scents that oscillate between hints of biscuit on the surface, light spicing, and fresh cream between one alveolus and another. The well-formed semisphere testifies to the artisanal skill of the pastry chef from Acerenza, with a substantial 20% of raisins, the crumb takes on the nuanced notes of centrifuged butter and eggs from joyful hens. Sweetness prevails, offering disarming softness.
Brisa
It spoiled us with fluorescent packaging (when most were adorned with snowflakes and golden stars), variations on the pastry theme (read: "Strudel" flavored panettone, elected as #1 by the brand's fans with a collective survey), and - last but not least - to an inclusive working environment, ready to overturn the axioms of the common bakery. Could Brisa avoid the vegan challenge? The answer comes promptly with the Veganone, a plant-based dessert that, from the "instructions for use" (preferably consumed within 2 weeks of production), reveals a short and honest list of dairy-free ingredients.
The butter is therefore plant-based, and the recipe is balanced by nutritionist Ferdinando Giannone, who has been working alongside the team for the development of the entire line for years. At the top, we find crispy almonds and uniform sugar; the interior, more compact, shows minimal crumb due to the absence of animal fats, but upon tearing, the dough is thin and airy. A discreet scent of sweet bread, dried fruit, and a slight biscuity note on the outside, while the bite "takes flight," revealing great lightness. In addition to the Classic, the edition showcasing ethically-sourced apricots and homemade chocolate distinctly plays the indulgence card.
For those who want to opt for leavened bread with good centrifuged butter, the choice ranges from traditional to Gianduia, up to the aforementioned Strudel.
The panettone will be available online on the website www.fornobrisa.it and shipped throughout Italy. Residents of Bologna and the surrounding areas, as well as those passing through the city, can find them in the 5 retail locations.
Pasticceria Marchesi
An historic brand alone is not enough to create a good leavened treat. Indeed, Marchesi goes beyond the name: the renowned Milanese emblem has managed to incorporate the method of pastry chef Diego Crosara into its timeless elegance, capable of capturing the Christmas mood in just a few strokes. This year, Diego brings home (or rather, to the pastry shop) the title of winner in the "Artists of Panettone 2023" competition, thanks to a classic unglazed sweet that impressed everyone with its finesse in detail.
The presentation is neat and meticulous, with diamond-shaped fruits well distributed throughout the entire slice, from six-crown raisins to rigorously selected Sicilian oranges and cedrus to candied fruits. The fragrance releases multiple aromas, ranging from brioche-like to a light toasting on top, to the milky notes of fresh cream that enhance the crumb. The "cupolotto" (small dome), moreover, is one of the most impactful aesthetically. The "reinforced" versions include flavors like pple, Cinnamon, and Caramel, Chocolate, Candied Chestnuts, and Pistachio with spread included. Additionally, you can request a hand-decorated cadeaux with almond paste and royal icing, choosing holiday motifs and characters for reproduction in miniature. Gift ideas inspired by boule de neige theme are not lacking - a true novelty in 2023 - such as charming chocolate spheres.
Christmas products are available at the three Marchesi 1824 pastry shops in Milan - via Santa Maria alla Porta 11/a, via Monte Napoleone 9, and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II - and at the London pastry shop at 117 Mount Street, Mayfair. A selection of products, including the inevitable leavened treats, is available online at www.pasticceriamarchesi.com.
Davide Longoni
Davide Longoni is a tireless baker who loves to get to the heart of the product to always showcase new aspects. Thus, his panettone starts from history - that of a sweet bread from the oven, precisely - gradually embracing the changes of a city that never stands still. Two aspects destined to come together in the 2023 edition: on one side, the ethical and genuine sweet, almost a tribute to the purity of origins; on the other, the striking packaging, also created this year by Gianluca Cannizzo.
The fundamentals remain the same: a two-step leavening process (first 14, then 8 hours) supervised by the Lab director Mauro Iannantuoni; fragrant candied fruits with an incisive aftertaste, the result of the Jam Session project in collaboration with two other well-known Italian bakeries; social projects on the agenda (see the collaboration with SOS Rosarno, an association committed to fighting against illegal labor practices that provides the oranges for transformation). The result is a hemisphere that showcases all the potential of well-managed sourdough, from the winking alveoli to the olfactory nuances of wheat. French dairy butter proves to be a pleasant caress, adding depth without overpowering the taste. A dessert for the end of the meal that you can comfortably indulge in seconds.
The classic and chocolate panettone will be available in stores and online on the e-commerce platform (davidelongoni.com).
Pavè
To break the myth of the December panettone, Pavè offers it all year round, as a symbol of Milanese identity turned into dessert. However, the credit for the brand mainly goes to the dedication of head pastry chef Giovanni Gilberti, who manages to make us perceive butter in a new way, thanks to a bouquet of fragrances suspended between soft mousse and warm milk, up to playful hints of caramel. The aromatic strength finds substance in a soft and yielding dough that leaves an equally vivid taste in the mouth.
The ingredients? Flour from Mulino Bongiovanni, Pariani raisins, Madagascar vanilla.
And then a "seventy-year-old" sourdough, used also for the making of pandoro. The idea of offering mini-sized packaging is convincing: this is the case for the festive desserts in jar baking, already portioned and ready to taste. For those planning gourmet gifts, there is a beautiful assortment of themed boxes for chocolate, small pastries, or savory delights. There's something for everyone!
All Pavé-branded products are available at the pastry shops located on via Felice Casati and via della Commenda.
Dolceria Sapone
Here, the candied element doesn't hold back: very outgoing in the basic version, almost imposing itself on the milky-vanilla notes. We liked Eustachio Sapone's leavened dessert for its straightforward aroma that boldly breaks the circle of Christmas predictability.
Produced at Dolceria Sapone in the province of Bari by the pastry chef of the same name - trained with Biasetto and Massari, and a pioneer of jar-baked baba and the Torta Trio (which he "exported" to Italy from France) - the dessert stands out especially for its strong regional significance. It is also available in the "Pugliettone" version, with terracotta packaging from Grottaglie crafted by the ceramist Marcello Fasano. To enrich the crumb, there are premium oranges from the Gulf of Taranto, figs from the Salento region, and lemons from the Gargano. Also worth trying is the flavor filled with caramelized red onions from Acquaviva (the artisan's hometown), while the Panbagnato focuses on the alcoholic insert, ranging from Lemon and Limoncello to Chocolate and Rum. This results in 15 assorted types to bite into the south in all its character.
Dolceria Sapone di Eustachio Sapone
Estramurale S. Pietro 32
70021 Acquaviva delle fonti, BA Italy
Tel +39 080 76 75 47
info@dolceriasapone.it
Pasticceria Lorenzetti
Sourdough from 1960, great respect for sweet origins, and a professional affiliated with the Academy of Sourdough Masters and Traditional Panettone: these are the trump cards of Lorenzetti, an ancient pastry shop in Verona with an eye on the product's evolution. In the San Giovanni in Lupatoto laboratory, they produce the most authentic classics, such as pandoro or Nadalin (its two-hundred-year-old "ancestor," conceived by the Signoria della Scala), distinguished by the addition of toasted almonds and pine nuts to a low and moist dough, shaped like an 8-pointed star.
The crumb is completely devoid of candied fruits (those who don't like them will finally have their revenge!) appealed to us for its ethereal texture: a fluffy bite without regrets after the holiday feasts. On the other hand, those who wish to end the festive dinner in grand style can choose the panettone with Recioto della Valpolicella wine, where the alcoholic part is reduced at low temperatures to create a luscious glaze. This strategy allows Lorenzetti to avoid additional sugars; the result is a very distinctive aftertaste, characteristic but not "overpowering" in the overall impact.
Le Levain
High expectations, because we're talking about the best French pastry shop in Rome. But Le Levain—bolstered by its recent opening on Via Piave 8, twinned with the Picapau roastery—lives up to its standards. The three panettoni offered in 2023 are inspired by the brand's most beloved cakes: in addition to the Classic, there's Django (a chocolate variant with semi-candied raspberry inserts and Valhrona cover) and Moana (with a light dough, red berries, more pistachio praline, and passion fruit cream). The "Norman butter" from Isigny makes its presence felt, adding an extra dose of silkiness to the crumb. Master Giuseppe Solfrizzi then played with precision, developing new methods for extracting fragrance from oranges. The generous nuances don't tire; instead, they enjoy a nice balance in sugars and texture.
The Panettone creations by Giuseppe Solfrizzi can be purchased directly on the Le Levain Online Shop (at the website https://shop.lelevainroma.it/) to have them delivered to your home, or at the stores.
Mamm
From Udine, a panettone that is good in every sense, which you'll unwrap with double awareness: that of quality and inclusivity. Mamm has chosen to donate the proceeds from sales to the local Arcigay association, creating a version completely free of raisins and candied fruits: a symbolic gesture, yes, but also a respect for unspoken preferences (after all, how many of us have always dreamed of a dessert without inserts?).
For everyone else, there's the delightful dough with extra virgin olive oil from the Petruzzi oil mill, adorned with nuggets of gianduia and apricots. It's a lactose-free preparation, very intriguing for the hints provided by the vegetable fats. Besides enjoying the rainbow packaging, it's worth visiting the stores if you're in the area: founder Roberto Norarnicola has adorned Mamm Pane and Ciclofocacceria with colorful references to Pink Floyd's Another Brick in the Wall.
The panettone can be found at the two stores located in the city of Udine:
Mamm Ciclofocacceria, at Lago del Teatro, 2; Mamm Pane, at Via Bersaglio, 1. You can also order them online at www.mamm-udine.it.
Bonfissuto
Would you ever have thought that a Sacher cake could become a panettone? This year, Bonfissuto worked the magic, showcasing the best of the Pelecchiella apricot from Vesuvius: it orchestrates the tasting of the special edition "Iconic Art," dressed in a thick layer of dark chocolate and given a contemporary touch by the packaging of the street artist Riccardo Bresciani. The well-balanced and never cloying filling, although very rich, stands out against an aesthetically perfect dome.
On the other hand, it plays at home with "Le due Sicilie," a sweet where the flour of ancient Sicilian grains meets the late Ciaculli mandarin and the Melannurca campana Igt. The pandoro? 100% Made in Sicily, with a delicious spreadable pistachio cream.
Iginio Massari
True to his promise of excellence: whether you choose it classic, filled, or "without" (in the two versions without candied fruits and lactose), Iginio Massari's panettone will unquestionably repay your trust. The traditional one undergoes 4 leavenings and 2 doughs, for a total of 62 hours of processing: in our opinion, the best glazed version of 2023, with a subtle hint of cocoa rounding off the glaze of dried fruits and sugar.
The "long" tear brings satisfaction even in the special editions - see the one for the 50th anniversary, where caramel, caramel chocolate nuggets, and cubes of candied mandarin create a range of nuances that broaden the horizons of sweetness. The Cocoa and Chocolate panettone is amazing, enriched with cream for an extra indulgence and nuggets of dark and milk chocolate. Too many flavors to mention in one article, for everything else there's the e-shop!
Gino Fabbri
Many small tricks, like orange peel to scent the dough, a double glaze (with peeled and raw almonds), and high-quality Bourbon vanilla: these details make Gino Fabbri's panettone a true Christmas evergreen. The entire appearance is vibrant yellow, dotted with crunchy fruit, while the exterior with a biscuit-colored dome exudes the fragrance of a pastry shop. Other versions? The Giubileo, with candied sour cherries, raspberries, and a regal dark chocolate glaze; or the Delizia, enriched with candied apricots, cubes of almond paste, and almond glaze with sugar bits.
