The return of young people to the land and the revival of indigenous products came together in Cortona, where a few years ago, Alessandro Valiani transformed the small-scale aglione production for personal consumption into a commercial venture, triumphing over the challenge.
The collaboration continues between Reporter Gourmet and BMW Italy to discover the finest Italian excellences. Today, we present Valdichiana's aglione, produced by Alessandro Valiani: a unique garlic known for its delicacy and digestibility, also named the "kiss garlic"! Here are all its properties.
The product
Alessandro Valiani's story is that of many young individuals who, at a certain point in a chaotic world, decided to return to the land, finding in those abandoned soils a foundation for their dreams. Not following any predetermined path, as he had not pursued agricultural studies, instead choosing to travel and work abroad, mainly in the United States. His father, Benedetto, owned several plots of land but had always entrusted their management to others. Until seven years ago, Alessandro decided to bring them all under the umbrella of a single agricultural company, bearing the family name, alongside an agriturismo in Cortona.
During those years, talk of "aglione" (botanically known as "allium ampeloprasum var. Holmense") was rekindled, and since there were a few hectares available next to the 3500-tree olive grove, the idea of expanding the small family cultivation arose organically. In Valdichiana, aglione had never disappeared, but it had been reduced to microproduction for personal consumption. In the Valiani household, in particular, Mother Lorena had always used it for classic "pici" pasta with aglione, (find recipe here) in both white and red (tomato) versions. "But as the demand for it grew, we gradually expanded production. Today, it covers two hectares with a total of 25 thousand plants," Alessandro tells.
Pici all'aglione
Now, however, the task is to introduce this indigenous variety beyond its birthplace in Central Italy. The name might be intimidating, but the enlarging only pertains to its size: in fact, it's an extraordinarily delicate and digestible garlic due to its natural lack of allicin. So much so that in the area, it's called the "kiss garlic" or the "lover’s garlic." Its market ranges from supermarkets to Michelin-starred restaurants, with a price fluctuating around 20 euros per kilogram.
Aglione's soupIt often finds exceptional endorsements, such as from Riccardo Monco, who currently uses it at Enoteca Pinchiorri to prepare a cream served with Murge’s chicken and porcini royale. "We've been using it for several years now: we like it because it's versatile, serving as both an ingredient and a seasoning. In some aspects, it's much preferable to regular garlic because it's milder, less pungent, and more digestible. To make it even more harmonious, it should be peeled, sliced, and soaked overnight in milk, then dried. Without sautéing, it can be cold-blended with oil, chili, and blanched parsley leaves to create an emulsion."
Riccardo Monco-Crediti Lido Vannucchi
And who knows, perhaps the recognition of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for the Valdichiana product, a process initiated by the Consortium a couple of years ago and now considered to be in its final stages, will aid in its dissemination. The actual region isn't small: extending from around the center of Arezzo, it stretches to Siena and brushes against Umbria near Lake Trasimeno. Azienda Valiani also holds an organic certification: the bulbs are sown towards the end of October and remain in the ground until they are harvested in June, without needing irrigation. In fact, the soil should be sandy and well-draining to prevent mold.
However, in May, it's necessary to cut off the flower, as it could sap the plant's energy. Since it's edible, it can be turned into jams or pickles, while the stems are suitable for making pasta dishes. The drying process takes place in dark and airy rooms, where over the course of 15 days, the excess water is removed from the aglione, making it suitable for consumption. Its size is striking: the weight of a single head can reach 800 grams, while the individual ivory-colored cloves, numbering from 2 to 8, can weigh between 40 and 90 grams.
Then there's San Martino olive oil, a Tuscan PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) from Leccino, Frantoio, Moraiolo, and Pendolino cultivars, also obtained without pesticides or fertilizers. The drupes come from a very ancient terraced olive grove, hand-harvested and pressed in the family mill, which Alessandro manages with his cousin. However, bottling takes place only in good years, and the 2022 vintage, unbelievably, seems to be heading towards success in this regard.
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Address
Azienda Agricola Valiani
Località S. Martino Bocena, 35, 52044 Cortona AR
