From creative restaurants that revive local flavors to speakeasies, via lively markets and mouthwatering detour: on the foodie front, Australia offers its best in Melbourne.
That Australians are particularly welcoming and friendly is well known, but perhaps Melbourne is of all the most hospitable; the capital of the Australian state of Victoria, on Australia's southeastern coast, is also the country's food and wine capital. It is really worth reaching there to discover and taste its tastiest soul. An article is perhaps reductive, considering the immense food and wine scene it offers and which grows year by year; indeed, there are numerous restaurants and cocktail bars scattered over the city map, but in the meantime, mark these addresses we recently visited.
The journey
The experience begins even before you land, because aboard Qatar Airways business class (with which I traveled) there is mouth-watering, as well as relieving relief from the many hours of flying required to get there. Qatar Airways offers numerous options for passengers on board. In fact, the airline offers an appealing selection of IATA (International Air Transport Association) approved dishes, including variations of vegan, religious and health meals, never frozen since bread-which has turned out even better than some bakeries or supermarkets. Everything is produced daily before reaching passengers on board, menus are changed every three months to meet different needs and during holidays (such as Eid and Chinese New Year), and the Cathar company offers special menus to passengers on board to create moments of conviviality even in flight.
In addition, menus are customized to best reflect local destinations; as the flag carrier of the State of Qatar, it introduces, for example, authentic traditional Middle Eastern cuisine that passengers can enjoy 12 km above ground. Also valuable is the wine list, with over a dozen labels well illustrated on the menu, all temperature correct and varied, being able to choose from Champagne, Bordeaux, Italian Nebbiolo and up to an icewine.
In this way you can only arrive refreshed and energized to discover Melbourne. The city is huge, but on a sunny day it is most pleasant to stroll through its wide ups and downs; many of the most worthwhile restaurants that are elevating the city's food culture are located downtown, so you will just have to know where to go.
Restaurants in the city
Big Esso by Mabu Mabu, for example: the indigenous bush tucker variety is served in the middle of Fed Square. Big Esso is an expression used in Torres Strait (the arm of the sea between Australia and the island of New Guinea) that means “the greatest thanksgiving.” This is what is said when one really wants to express gratitude and when combined, “Mabu Mabu & Big Esso” give rise to the expression used before beginning an unprecedented celebration.
Chef Nornie Bero is more than proud to bring indigenous food and culture back to the banks of the Birrarung, the river that flows through the city and was once a habitat for eels, sharks, dolphins and stingrays. This place was the main source of food, hunting, cooking and ceremonies; therefore, the desire is to bring those stories to life by serving their inspired dishes in a historic place. Not to be missed is the roasted kodal (crocodile) tongue and red tea curry. It is worth visiting Parcs, the small and recent restaurant that shows what can be achieved through reused ingredients, fermentations, respect for the seasons, and how the discarded parts of produce take on a new form when fermented, grilled over the fire, or slowly braised.
It is here that executive chef Damien Neylon, young head chef Amelia Hussey and director Shakheal make up the magic trio that puts their wits about them in a stripped-down kitchen where equipment consists of a wok, charcoal grill and induction stove. Try the native “bloody mary” oysters and the octopus, coffee and farro. Another outlier is New Zealander Peter Gunn at the head of the Ides sign.
Located in the city's trendiest suburb, this dimly lit restaurant with gray-clad walls presents itself with a fresh, casual approach and upscale cuisine. Peter Gunn, former sous chef at gastronomic giant Attica, prefers vigorous, technique-based tasting menus that challenge both diners and his boys. The deep pork broth, trout roe on creamy avocado is an example of this guy's vision. The pairings are equally irreverent and range from sake to beers and all the way to macerated wines. A bold, beautiful and completely unique experience in Melbourne. You will hear about Super Normal, well it is not to be missed.
Created by renowned chef-restaurateur Andrew McConnell , it's a casual restaurant with a Japanese vibe, amid neon cherries at the entrance, vending machines for Nipponese snacks, bright lights, and even a karaoke room in the basement. A long, zinc-topped counter flanks one side of the room, parallel to the open kitchen where a platoon of chefs work in full view of the dining room.
A lot of Chinese influence on the menu-an echo of McConnell's time spent in Shanghai and Hong Kong. Bao and duck breast seasoned with Szechuan pepper, there are also many Korean and Japanese flavors such as barbecue pork shoulder, meat skewers and kimchi, steaming bowls of ramen at lunch. Two classics are lobster rolls and peanut butter parfait. To enjoy Melbourne's best signs, the food tour around the city with various worthwhile tasty stops organized by This is Melbourne is recommended.
The market
Also a must-visit is the famous Queen Victoria Market, because, as I always argue, the soul of a city is in its markets. Officially opened on March 20, 1878, the market has served the people of Melbourne for more than 140 years; many transformations, it was added to the National Heritage List in recognition of its ties to Melbourne's early colonial population and its ability to demonstrate the main characteristics of a 19th-century metropolitan produce market.
Also known as “Vic Market” or “Queen Vic,” it has been the heart of Melbourne for more than a century. A historic landmark spread over two blocks, it's a bustling, central market where you can shop among the more than 600 small businesses selling everything, from Australian fruits and vegetables, fresh fish and kangaroo meats to mussel or doughnut food trucks and even breweries and ice cream makers. The advice is to book a tour with the Ultimate Foodie Tour in the company of expert and radio voice Mandy Kennedy.
Cocktail bars
And among the most popular and worthwhile bars of the moment? Unique in the 50 best ranking is Caretakers Cottage, in the heart of Melbourne. The name tells something about it down, an old cottage where the janitor of the Wesley Place church used to reside.
Here the experienced Rob Libecans, Ryan Noreiks, and Matt Stirling, with backgrounds in the world's best bars, work closely with the multitude of thirsty people who come each night.The bar also functions as a DJ station, and amid music, partying, and a very pleasant atmosphere, they serve “House Martinis,” the best Guinness in town, and precise, captivating drinks.
It is not easy to find a seat but it will be worth the wait; in any case, there is a lovely outdoor space to enjoy and to socialize with friendly Australians. Then if you're in the mood for a speakeasy, look for the Mille Place Merchants: you enter through a space disguised as a Victorian-era dressing room, walk past a closet, and find yourself in a restaurant housed in a historic, World Heritage-listed building dating back to 1840. The space once housed the tradesmen's industry of canned meat, hats, soap and candles; today it features candles and abat-jours to illuminate the long room made up of antique furnishings among furniture and armchairs, opulent chandeliers, a counter filled with objects and a menu inside old books.
One place to lose track of time and drink strictly classic cocktails is Apollo Inn, located on the ground floor of 165 Flinders Lane, the 1920s neo-Renaissance-style building at the corner of Flinders and Hosier Lanes. Created by Andrew McConnell and Jo McGann, Apollo Inn is an intimate and inviting space that takes its cues from timeless European cocktail bars and is named after the original pub that once stood here, and where the Gimlet at Cavendish House (under the same ownership) is today.
Apollo Inn offers a thoughtful cocktail list of old world classics with a new world sensibility, created by bar manager Cameron Parish. Impressive bar and comfortable sofas, inspiration from 1950s elegance with an air of exclusivity akin to a members-only restaurant.
This is just a taste of what Melbourne has to offer, its qualitative food and wine growth is steady and year after year the formats change and are born, chefs arrive here to address the increasingly interested audience of food lovers confirming that yes, Melbourne is the gastronomic capital of the country and truly worth the trip.
