In the vast world of gastronomy, many dishes are in danger of disappearing, overwhelmed by modernity, changes in tastes and eating habits, or even scarcity of ingredients. While new culinary trends are conquering palates, there is a part of traditional cuisine that is in danger of being forgotten. It is crucial not only to explore the latest trends, but also to rediscover these almost lost gastronomic treasures, which are often linked to local culture and local traditions.
Cover photo: filindeu. Domus 81 credit.
Changing tastes and the difficulty in sourcing ingredients
There are several reasons for the disappearance of some dishes, but one of the most obvious is changing tastes and eating habits. With each generation, foods that were once considered part of everyday life are now less appreciated. In many cases, however, the problem is not only related to changes in preferences, but also to the difficulty of finding the necessary ingredients. Some of these have become rare or no longer produced due to an increasingly low demand, while others are victims of industrial agriculture that sacrifices biodiversity and tradition, Rolling Pin magazine reports in an analysis on the subject.
Overfishing and climate change: an uncertain future
Some foods are in danger of disappearing for environmental reasons. Overfishing has contributed to the reduction of many once-abundant seafoods. The effect of climate change, then, threatens agriculture and animal husbandry, putting the production of some key ingredients at risk. Even foods that seem indispensable, such as chocolate, wine and coffee, may become rare in the near future. And while climate change is a major cause, the scarcity of some varieties of fruits and vegetables and local animal breeds is already a reality.
Eat or save? The philosophy of Slow Food
The Slow Food organization, with its Ark of Taste, has created a database of more than 6,500 food products from around the world, many of which are considered endangered (examples in Italy include Garfagnana spelt and Valdarno chicken). “Don't eat it if you want to save it!” is the warning that accompanies many of these foods. If we really want to preserve food biodiversity, we must become aware that eating them could contribute to their extinction. The call is, therefore, not only to protect them but to learn to know and appreciate them, perhaps without abusing them.
Almost forgotten recipes: knowledge in danger of disappearing
Many dishes are in danger of disappearing not only because of a shortage of ingredients, but also because traditional preparation techniques are becoming increasingly rare. Such is the case with Sardinian pasta “su Filindeu,” which is prepared by a few women in Sardinia, handing down knowledge that dates back more than 300 years. It is an extremely thin pasta, composed of 256 threads, which is rolled out on a round loom and left to dry. Its preparation is so complex that even well-known chefs, such as Jamie Oliver, have not been able to successfully reproduce it. The secret of this pasta, which was served in broth to pilgrims, is in danger of vanishing along with the tradition surrounding it.
Forgotten dishes under the house: the cuisine of yesteryear
It is not necessary to travel far to discover rare and almost unknown dishes. In many families, recipes handed down from generation to generation have now disappeared. These are often poor dishes that have been replaced by more modern and convenient foods. One example is Mülifoafal, a milk soup with flour dumplings that was once the national dish of Burgenland in Austria. Or Saure Suppe mit Sterz, a typical Styrian sour soup that has been replaced by modern cuisine and is hard to find today. Other forgotten dishes, such as Klachlsuppe mit Heidensterz, a peasant soup from Germany, are now unknown to new generations, as evidenced by chef Tim Mälzer's attempt to reconstruct the recipe in his show “Kitchen Impossible.” Inside is pork shank, apple cider vinegar, sour cream, lard and buckwheat flour.
Cheeses with larvae: a tradition in danger of disappearing
Traditional cheeses are also at risk of extinction. Some, such as Murtrit, a smoked cheese from northern Italy, are almost unobtainable . Its production is limited to a few artisans, and the Oropa breed of cattle, from which the milk is obtained, is also in danger of extinction. Other cheeses , such as Nisso, produced in some regions of northern Italy, are particularly controversial. This mixed cow's (sometimes sheep's) milk cheese is known for using fly larvae to lay their eggs in the paste, a process that makes it creamy but has led to its disappearance, partly because of health bans.
Similar is the case with Sardinian Casu Marzu , which is also plagued by “piracy” problems and subject to protection by the region as an identity product (we tell you about it here), even to the point of applying to the EU for PDO recognition. Returning to Nisso, it is called a “cheese that jumps or burns,”, as Slow Food's Ark of Taste tells us, and the traditional version is mostly made for self-consumption, as it cannot be sold. Instead, you can find on the market, if you want to taste it, a Nisso with inoculated microorganisms instead of larvae, to impart spiciness without incurring any hygienic and health risks for consumers.
The challenge of preserving culinary traditions
In a rapidly changing world, the challenge of preserving gastronomic traditions and dishes that are in danger of disappearing is more urgent than ever. Eating habits are evolving, but we must not forget the value of traditional cuisines. Rediscovering and defending rare and nearly forgotten dishes is not only an act of love for culture, but also a way to protect food biodiversity and promote sustainability. The question remains: are we ready to sacrifice our hunger to preserve what is rare, or will we risk losing these treasures forever?
